I
Never Meet a 2A3 Amp I didnt Like
Welborne Labs Moondog 2A3 Monoblocks
Sound Practices Magazine
Reviewed by Joe Roberts
Nothing
in audio is a sure deal but if I were forced to come up with a fool proof
recommendation to stake my name on, I would have to go with the classic
no-brainer: "Its hard to build a bad 2A3 amplifier."
There might be some bad ones somewhere but I have to say that every 2A3
amp I ever had the pleasure to hear was at least pretty good and some were
downright amazing.
My introduction to triode amps came with restoring a few Brook 2A3 amps
of the early 1950s, which I didnt get to hear until they were certified
antiques in the early 1980s. Even in the late 1940s/early 1950s when they
were current models, the Brook designs were a throwback to prewar technologies
(see SP#2), valued by a few purists who knew that those newfangled pentodes
were nothing but a sell out.
The Brook 10C wasnt even a pure Class A design or anything. It used
a sliding bias adjustment scheme to switch the push pull 2A3s way into AB2
when the signal peaked. Yet, despite this elaborate and somewhat dubious
conception, the 10C still sounded very very good. Real, real good, in fact.
In an attempt to come up with a simpler amp than the Brook 10C, I built
a "Recording Amplifier" (minus the mic preamps). Glory, this was
a mighty fine sounding amp and Id build another one in a second. The
"triode sound" is still really there with PP topologies and...Man,
you can really get some low end out of a pair of these tubes. After all,
the 2A3s were chosen to run a record cutting head because of their good
damping behavior even sans feedback.
Yeah, somehow PP 2A3s fell through the cracks in this age of SE mania, but,
on the other hand, maybe a single 2A3 amp is about as good as it gets. My
first exposure to SE amplifiers was a shot in the dark. I remember looking
over a SE 2A3 circuit in the 1940 Radiotron Designers Handbook (third
edition), provided as an example for calculating the response of the circuit
and thinking "Hmmm?"
With a few voltage adjustments, I figured I could scrape a single amp out
of my "Recording Amplifier" by hooking the 6J7 straight into the
grid of one 2A3. I didnt have any SE transformers back then. I just
ran the DC through the primary of my vintage push-pull UTC LS-55 transformer.
When I turned this Frankenstein on I was floored. It sounded way better
than it should have. It was a looser, more open, more organic sound than
the PP 2A3, and although the bass wasnt as tight as the PP amp, it
was very expressive. This experiment was obviously taking me somewhere I
thought I might like to be.
Now, after years of study and experience, I might comment on how the 6J7/2A3
combo is reminiscent of the classic WECO Model 91 pentode driver/300B circuit
and blabber on in an Ultra-Fi "dress-to-impress" patois about
esoteric bullshit that doesnt matter anyway. Seems like everybody
is a triode amp expert today, but back then I didnt know anything
but what I was hearing. Thats all I needed to know. The rest is history.
One of the things that I know now that I didnt back then was that
Nobu Shishido, one of the "crazy Japanese guys" who revived the
triode amp, wrote the first article about SE in the modern era in a Japanese
experimenter mag about a 2A3 "Loftin-White" he originally built
from dumpster TVs while an MBA student in Oregon during the late 60s. He
didnt "go single-ended" to be hip. It was a cheap and easy
way for a poor tinkerer to get some music playing in the dorm. Anyway, that
amp ruined old Nobu for life.
The last SE 2A3 amp I built was inspired by JC Morrisons degenerate
Loftin-White lash-up called the Micro 3.5 from SP #6. The custom features
of my implementation included a bank of Western Electric oil caps and a
tasteful pink-and-white speckle over gray primer paint scheme. There were
only a few lonely parts underneath that big, ugly "budbox" chassis,
making it an air box beyond anything ever dreamed up by the mass marketeers.
Also, I used indirectly-heated 6A5-Gs instead of directly-heated 2A3s, which
sounded just like real DHT 2A3s to me but there was zero perceptible background
noise even on a horn. It was a weirdo, one-off creation and no big looker,
perhaps, but this amp kicked ass and took names, I swear! I gave the 6A5
amp to a Korean friend of mine, who eventually lent it to a hi-fl magazine
editor back home. The editor has since refused to return it, probably because
it sounds better than almost anything you can buy! No surprise there. Look,
it showed up in the pages of a Korean audio mag!!
Nobu Shishido probably loves the 2A3 as much as any man who ever walked
the earth, but he has moved on in his own technical/aesthetic quest to exploring
the grid circuits of transmitting tubes and the practical work of restoring
old opera 78s. He downplays the 2A3 with a been there, done that attitude-
"Sure the Loftin-White was a great amp but if it was that great why
isnt everybody listening to Loftin-Whites?"
Id be the last person to argue against audio diversity and the forward
march of progress, but I do believe that everybody should be required by
law to enjoy the pleasure of a good SE 2A3 amplifier for a while. There
is great reference value in knowing how much you can get with so little.
Fortunately in this day and age, you can buy super-quality parts to put
together a 2A3 of your own, or buy USA-made 2A3 amps, your choice of finished
or kit form. For the last 60 years, you had to really work to hear 2A3s,
but now its probably easier than its ever been. That is a strange
historical fact and the more I think about heavy historical facts like that,
the more I want to stop thinking, spark up a 2A3 myself, and just listen,
if you know what I mean.
I really like the name of the Moondog 2A3 monoblocks from Welborne Labs,
and not only because there is a certain timeless quailty of regularity and
dependability evoked by that lunar imagery. The cyclical theory of history
implied by the endless gyrations of the moon kind of fits with the resurgence
of this ancestral audio tube, for those who like a little millennial poetic
justice and tidal forces with their audio gear.
Beyond all that deep interplanetary symbolism, the name Moondog dares to
speak the obvious truth...that anybody who has to have a 2A3 amp is probably
too far gone into audio lunacy to relate to normal society anymore.
And Ron Welborne is in a good position to know about that freaky triode
crowd. Hey, Ron, do sales go up during the full moon or what? After all,
you came up with the name, buddy!
Consistent with the access to ancient natureal secrets and dedicated insanity
implied by the Moondog title, these amps feature the kind of classic tecnology
that is hard to aruge against. GZ-37 tube recitifier with a Pi-filter using
a choke, a pair of 6SN7s and a 2A3. Output transformer is the MagneQuest
DS-025, my personal favorite Philadelphia-wound transformer.
This amp is a solid, traditional, and somewhat conservative design and,
in those respects, it represents what is worth keeping from the retro concept.
Except for the DC heater supply for the 6SN7s, the Moondog is a throwback
to a long-dormant 1930s all-triode amplifier paradigm, back from the ashes
to play the music for the turn of the century.
Although I might have an intellectual reaction to a circuit, in one way
or another, I dont really know how to think about the sound of a given
circuit. A circuit is just an abstract picture until you build it out of
real-world parts. And it is a particular combination of parts that gives
each amp its actual sonic character. Often in my experiments with things
like 2A3 amps, I found that a coupling cap swap could impart more flavor
than installing a whole new driver stage.
That being said, I still feel good about the Moondog schematic. You wont
get burnt sticking with a classic framework like the two stage medium mu
triode Moondog voltage amp stage and a 2A3. This approach has become a classic
for many reasons, one of them being that a simple circuit that sounds good
is a tested recipe for satisfaction. Getting fancy isnt always the
point.
The Moondog might borrow from bygone traditions, but this amp does not sound
very antique at all. I believe thats because of those modern hi-tech
components. In these simple, no-feedback amps, you can really hear the parts,
every single one.
In the instruction manual, Ron Welborne says that at first he tried the
vintage carbon resistor and oil/paper cap scheme and they were impressed
with the tonal results. Then, after swapping in some boutique bits from
the Welborne parts catalog, such as Caddock foil resistors, a couple Mills
wirewounds, ELNA Cerafine caps, Hovland MusiCaps, and whatnot, Ron felt
that they had to go with the fancy stuff for modern audiophile performance
aspects, like big soundstaging and sonic detail resolution.
Welborne, ever eager to please, is willing to customize the kit per the
customers individual audio fantasies, so if youre after something
special, give the man a call. Its a a kit, after all, so if you want
to mellow it out with an oil cap or whatever, whos gonna stop you?
Certainly not Ron Welborne. Hell even sell you the damn oil cap!
On the whole, the quality of the hardware and components that go into the
Moondog kit are on the level to be expected from a specialist parts guy:
Cardas connectors, OFC wire, name brand components out the wazoo. The Moondog
package doesnt go over the top with swank and elaboration but there
is no junk in sight.
The Moondog monos are packaged in the brass plate and walnut wood frame
style seen before with the Laurel 300B amp. The look is natural and unadorned
with a sort of rustic manly character. The amps look handcrafted rather
than mass-produced; which is exactly what they are.
Like I said before, I think its those newfangled Welborne Catalog
components, but the Moonlog I heard, Rons personal stock Moondog,
tunes the antique 2A3 for the modem 1990s wide bandwidth, high-resolution
aesthetic. The 2A3 is capable of presenting an astonishingly natural, high-definition
3-D scenario and this amp showcases that impressive trait.
This is one of the important things triodes can do: that very detailed presentation
with enough harmonic depth and color to get the emotional encoding of the
tones across. In my opinion, the added color imparted by the 2A3 is just
what is needed to warm back to life that cold analytical concept of x-y-z
axis positioning as a goal for hi-fi systems. Perhaps some "imaging"
is necessary for realistic musical portrayal, but it is not in and of itself
sufficient to get the illusion across. Imaging for me belongs to the intellectual
side of recorded music listening, not the immediate physical communication
part. Without that special expressive juice behind it, the image is just
a skeleton-the dry, objective component of phonographic realism.
The way some SE triode amps get the audiophile transparency illusion right
without sacrificing the vivid life and tonal complexity of music has been
a hit with a lot of listeners, including me. Such amps can be shockers to
hear.
A clear-voiced 2A3 is especially good at sneaking up on you every once in
a while with realism that is scary. Like a bell sound out of nowhere that
makes you jump out of your chair. Or how Miles horn on Live at the
Blackhawk cuts through the air like a flare. How could anyone not like this
magical effect that Im trying so uselessly to describe?
Since the Moondog is being offered in a package arrangement with Lowther
Club of America, which I took to suggest a recommendation of the Lowther/Moondog
combo, I had to try it with my PM6As in Medallion cabinets. Indeed, Welborne
picked parts using his Lowther PM2A as one of his main reference speaks,
so there ya go.
No shock then that the pairing really clicked, as expected. The Moondog
supported the high-res well-lit effect of the paper cone Lowthers. The incisive
midrange added realism where a more flabby mid would have steered the PM6As
toward the boozy, lush flavor I got with a lot of my other SE triode amps
on my Lowthers. There was something to be said for the tasteful restraint
of the Moondog in this system configuration.
The Moondog also led me to rethink my theory that I really want some feedback
on the Lowthers to add control the rear-loaded horn bass. Most no-FB SE
amps Ive tried on the Lowthers sounded gorgeous in many ways, but
more often than not were underdamped in the bottom register.
However, to my amazement, the no-feedback Moondog played with excellent
low end control, thanks only to the reasonably low damping factor provided
by a naked 2A3. The tightness, definition, and punch were right there. Vibrations
emanating from tightly-stretched membranes sounded like they were coming
from tightly- stretched materials. Good job on the low end.
According to Welborne, most of the people who have been buying the Moondog
kit own Altecs, Lowthers, Klipschorns. The K-horn fans are particularly
nirvana-stricken with the 2A3s, fitting since Paul Klipsch used Brook 2A3s
back in the olden days. Altec, Klipsch, etc... these are all obvious candidates,
but I believe that the clear, crisp, and well-damped character of the Moondog
would serve the amps well in the quest for matching speakers among the contemporary
crop of audiophile boxes.
And if you find yourself in a situation where you think a bit more whatever
is in order, remember that its a kit. Feel free to screw around!
COMMENT
Obviously, I liked both 2A3 amplifiers that I heard quite a bit. Although
I purchased the Fi"X" before ever hearing the Welborne Moondog,
I was never stricken with buyers remorse. Really, I would have felt
the same way if I bought the Moondogs. Ahhh, 2A3 amps; I love em.
These are the kind of amps I started building in order to enjoy. Im
really glad to see that you can go out and buy kits and amps like this now.
With compression drivers, I like a dash of romantic excess in the amp. These
TAD 2001 drivers sure dont donate any romantic excess to the system.
If I owned the Moondogs, I might try sticking in an oil coupling cap for
compression driver use, although many would prefer the clean, low-distorton
act of the stock amps. Tough to say. What I think I want isnt always
what I actually want when its playing there in front of me.
On the Lowthers, both amps again did a good job. The Fi 2A3 came across
gutsy rich, and punchy with a full, slightly puffy, and emotive bass. The
Moondog shifted my attention upward in frequency to the ultra-clean midrange
and sparkle effects but had a low end that was surprisingly crisp and well-articulated
for a NFB flea power amp on that rear-loaded bass horn.
Listening to these amps, it was hard to shift into an "amp shootout"
review mode, because they both sounded so good in their own ways. I just
wanted to sit back and listen to what the amps were doing.
SPEAKERS
Two of the big reasons 2A3 amps like the X and Moondog arent more
popular is that 1) Most people havent heard anything like this and
dont know how good it can be and 2) It does require a leap of faith
to expect that there are speakers that 3W will drive. It is definitely difficult
to believe, based on the usual preconceptions, that three watts will drive
anything. All I can say is "ha,ha,ha."
I used to think I needed fifty watts at Least. Now I can bridge the power
outputs of my five favorite amps, and the total wouldnt even hit fifty,
probably closer to forty, watts.
Obnously 2A3 and 45 amps are tailor-made for what I like to use em
for....efficient multi-amplified horn systems. Indeed, with a horn, power
aint nothing but a number, and you can totally ignore the specs and
select amplification on the basis of musical performance criteria alone.
One reality we can never get beyond is that there is always a moment of
mystery when you hook up a new amp and speaker combination. The challenge
is a bit more obvious when the amp is a three-watter, since engineering
feats like high-power and feedback are intended precisely to reduce the
mystery of the speaker drive equation, and single 2A3 amps do it without
those technical advantages.
On the other hand, at least the 2A3s are great sounding amps, which cant
be said for many "drive-anything" amps, because what you have
to do to "drive anything" is not free in terms of sonic tradeoffs.
Its easy to overplay the case that three watts is more useful than
one would think, for these are indeed very low powered amplifiers that were
talking about. However, except for stupid combinations like Apogees or Magnepans
+ single 2A3s, I think that the quality and quantity of music that single
2A3s would put out on many "normal" speakers is worthy of respect.
Three watts will get some sound out of any speaker, not to say that it would
be anything great to hear in many cases.
As for specific speakers, well it either works or it doesnt. Only
trying it will tell you if a 2A3 will play loud, play only at low-levels,
or not at all on a given speaker. It would be nice if there were some specification
that would tell us what we want to know, but there aint no such thing,
unfortunately.
Speaker sensitivity helps but may not be important as highish (>8) impedance
and general voodoo synergism that applies to system matching. Simple or
no crossover designs seem to work out a little better than lossy complex
networks, for obvious reasons, but anything is worth a shot because you
never know.
Now that the speaker makers are hip to horns, isnt it time for the
single-driver full range revival? Man, thats what we need. I still
dont think I ever beat that pair of Altec 755A eight-inchers in 2
cu.ft. wall cabs that I had when I first started messing with low power.
Lowthers are good but lets have something we can just stick into a
plain old rectangular box and be done with it.
In various pockets of the globe, full-rangers like Diatones, Fostex, Supravox,
Siemens, have their devotees, but the US scene never got hip to this classic
low-intensity approach. True, single-cone drivers usually cant "do
everything," but, for this kind of thing, its more important
how well they do what they do, mainly the mids.
The way not to try a 2A3 on a "regular" speaker, exactly the way
most audiophiles would probably do it, is to pull out an old copy of The
Sheffield Drum Record or "1812" and immediately crank the program
up until the amp clips. Sure, it will clip. What did you think?
The right way to try out a low power amp with a "regular speaker"
is to go ahead and listen to music as you ordinarily would and see how it
works out. What usually happens is that it sounds pretty good, but while
youre listening, dreams of horns start dancing in your head. What
can I say?
Its strange that amp choice decisions are so often tied in with the
speakers already in the listening room, when what were doing is looking
for a new amp right? Lets face it, a more productive system-building
logic and more satisfying recipe for personal happiness would be to go out
and buy the damn 2A3 amp first and then look for speakers that will work
with the new amp. The truth. You heard it here first, fellas!