NOTE: The following E3/ E9 tips and suggestions were culled from BMWCCA, Usenet, Newsgroups, and the Senior Six List with or without permission depending on whether they gave it... Not responsible for information within, nor cut fingers, lost tools, head scratching, or dementia resulting from the use thereof. Read and use at your own risk... some tips are dangerous in the wrong hands, quite possibly YOURS.
Another Cure to Overheating........................................ ........(Table of Contents)Overheating seems to be a common ailment, particularly for the six cylinder. I suspect the cause is too tight engineering specs in relation to variations in castings in water passages. I cured the problem in our old 2500A by insisting that our garage recore the radiator with a larger core. Unfortunately, the damage from overheating had taken its toll, and the poor dear expired at 90,000 miles (some 20,000 miles later) with a cracked head and piston. Our 2002 has never given us cause for worry about overheating, nor has our 530i.
But the 2500 overheated from the first. Countless trips to the dealer, multiple treatments (from disconnecting the automatic fan to boiling the radiator) failed to cure the problem. Recoring solved the problem entirely.
I suggest that anyone having regular overheating problems not waste time, energy, and money seeking other solutions but spend the relatively small sum necessary to have a larger core installed.
Stephen R. Holman
Alternative for Increased Cooling........................................ .......(Table of Contents)
To improve engine cooling without the air conditioning operational, wire-up the air conditioning fan (in front of the condenser and radiator) with an independent circuit and your engine will run about 15 degrees cooler when "inching" in traffic on hot days.
The temperature gauge in my 1974 3.0SA would reach midway between the last normal mark and the red overheating mark when standing for lengthy periods in our big-city traffic on days in the 90's. (The last normal mark is about 200°F.)
With the air conditioning operational it ran a bit cooler (10°F.), indicating about one fourth the distance between the two marks thanks to the air conditioning fan being operational.
With the auxiliary fan operating and the air conditioning off, the temperature indicator reaches the last normal mark, which is about 15-20°F. cooler, when in inching traffic for lengthy periods.
To effect the wiring, I picked up a hot lead controlled by the on/off key, installed a BMW switch on the dash and then wired into the positive air conditioning fan lead (red) between the fan and the flying fuse (16 amp).
In certain cases, care must be exercised not to operate both the air conditioning and the auxiliary fan switch at the same time. Two positive wires going to the fan at the same time might blow the flying fuse if the hookup has the opportunity for feedback. A relay protects the flying fuse when the air conditioning is not operational.
Gary L. Vesey
Heater Control Valve .................................................. .......(Table of Contents)
It seems that in most recent American cars the heater control valve which controls hot water flow to the core has been removed. Too many cars were having the heater core corrode through when the owner would shut off the heater in early Spring and not turn it on again till Winter.
The water trapped in the heater cannot circulate with the heater control off and also does not get the benefit of the water pump lube and anticorrosion additives you add (you do, don't you?).
BMWs still have heater control valves, so it's a good idea to turn on the heat (not the fan) a few times during the Summer and circulate some water through the heater core.
Ed Vozek
Bavaria Overheating ................................................ .............(Table of Contents)
In the past, while waiting at the San Francisco Bay Bridge toll plaza, my temperature gauge would routinely climb from 192° to 215°-220°. About five months ago I had a three row radiator core installed. My Bavaria now runs at 180° and climbs slowly to 205°-210°.
I heartily agree with Mr. Holman of San Rafael that the larger core is the best way to go.
John Taylor
Bavaria Radiator Drain Plug................................. ..............(Table of Contents)
If you strip the threads on the radiator drain plug, you may have a problem. I was informed by a dealer that only German models used drain plugs and the US models did not. So, if you have a drain plug, take care, since 8 mm brass plugs are hard to find. You might want to engage the services of a good radiator shop to have a drain installed.
Phillip Medley
Bavaria Cooling Problems Revisited .......................... .........(Table of Contents)
A chronic problem with many Bavaria's is marginal cooling capacity. This situation can become acute with an air-conditioned car idling in traffic or when towing. If the stock cooling system is in a reasonable state of repair, the problem becomes one of inadequate heat dissipation by the radiator under conditions of high ambient air temperature and relatively low air flow. Shrouding the fan will improve low-speed air flow, but the tight confines of the engine compartment make this a difficult fabrication job. A far more effective solution is to increase the radiator's cooling area. It is fairly simple to substitute a 2" thick core for the stock 1.5" item. The stock end tanks and hoses are retained, and the radiator mounts require only the slightest modification. The thicker core increases cooling area by 1/3 and works beautifully. There is one catch Ñ $200+ for a custom radiator core and another $35 to install it.
After a good bit of investigation, I discovered a firm that could supply a 2" core for the Bavaria as a stocked item for $99.25. Installation is $35, and a circular guard to prevent fan contact with the core is $5 extra. This firm has agreed to sell the 2" Bavaria core as a separate item for installation by your local radiator shop or will perform the complete conversion on an owner-supplied radiator. Contact Fred Jones at Jones & Sipe, Inc., 540 Prospect St., York, PA 17403 or phone 717 845-3694.
A cooler thermostat does not cure overheating; it merely delays its onset. A cooler thermostat coupled with a properly functioning cooling system is desirable because normal operating temperature can be tailored for optimum efficiency. My personal preference is for the 80°C unit rather than the 84°C item normally supplied in the USA.
The Bavaria fan clutch can be locked solid, but unless the clutch is malfunctioning, the end result is more noise without a significant improvement in cooling. If you must lock up the fan clutch, replace two of the four M 6x25-mm bolts that secure the fan to the clutch hub with M 6x30-mm bolts placed diametrically opposite each other to preserve balance. Other methods of locking the clutch usually result in imbalance or fan misalignment.
John J. Spittle III
Bavaria Heat Problem Solved .............................................. .........(Table of Contents)
Those of you who have suffered from heat coming through the drive shaft tunnel, cooking your right leg, take heart! BMW now offers a heat shield (18 12 1 245 565 $4.10) that effectively radiates the heat downwards from the muffler. Mounting brackets are needed (18 12 1 245 566) two at $.95 each, and four bolts (07 11 9 919 978) and four nuts (07 12 9 922 714). It takes about ten minutes to install and really works.
Richard Aland
Replacement Radiator Hoses .......................................... .............(Table of Contents)
Gates manufactures replacements for BMW radiator hoses which are almost exact replicas, complete with the correct bends and lengths. They are available at many automotive outlets.
Don J. Scaggs
Do I Need a New Head Gasket?................................... ....... ........(Table of Contents)
First of all, determine if the "smoke" is actually smoke or steam. To do so is simple. Take a Kleenex tissue and hold it at the end of the tail pipe. It will nearly disintegrate if the "smoke" is really steam. On the other hand, if it is not water vapor, it will remain intact
If you find it is smoke, there is a possibility that this is burning brake fluid caused by a faulty brake master cylinder. Unlike oil, brake fluid will burn with a white color and not the blue that characterizes oil burning.
When a head gasket is replaced on a car eight years old, it is essential that the head be dismantled and resurfaced to ensure a flat mating surface. This could not possibly be done properly for a figure as low as $125.
I would suggest retorquing the cylinder head to 55 ft. Ibs.(for 2002), which in some cases will reseat a blown head gasket. Still there is the possibility of a cracked cylinder head on an exhaust valve seat This can be temporarily cured by the addition of "Porter-Seal," an aluminum-based radiator additive which will not clog the heater. Another brand name which will work is "Aluma-Seal." Both look like powdered aluminum.
Under no circumstances would I suggest the head gasket be replaced without doing a compression test Also, I would suggest a test to detect the presence of carbon monoxide in the radiator, which, if positive, would indicate the probability of a cracked head. Tech Ed.
Loose Parts Under The Valve Cover .............................. ..........(Table of Contents)
Upon preparing to adjust the valves on our recently-purchased '76 530i, 1 removed the valve cover only to stare in horror and disbelief! One of the two hollow screws to the oil pipe and both of its seal rings were missing cardiac arrest!
Fortunately, the screw was found Iying next to the #3 exhaust valve spring with one ring still on it and the other ring was found in the cavity just to the right. Minor nicks and scratches were the only damage and the parts were re-installed, this time with a drop of Loc-Tite on the threads of the hollow screw. (Munich please take note!)
I heartily suggest that every BMW owner check these screws for tightness at the earliest opportunity or make sure your mechanic does so. The alternative could amount to a staggering expense.
Stan Simm
Spark Plug Lubricant? .......................................... .............(Table of Contents)
As a reminder, never use motor oil as a spark plug lubricant; it will 'carmalize' at combustion temperatures.
John Greenwood
Bavarian Machinist Cuts It Too Close! ......................... ........(Table of Contents)
If you have a small, unexplained leak from the differential of your Bavaria or coupe, may I suggest looking very closely at the machined hole nearest the drain plug? There's an excellent possibility that the hole was drilled too deep and a pinhole leak may result. If such is the case, simply plug with a rubber faucet disc to stop the flow, clean the wall of the hole with alcohol or similar solvent, then coat with two-stage epoxy or devcon liquid steel. Weird as it may seem, this actually happened, fortunately discovered in the garage and not on the highway, which might be extremely expensive. Better check it now!
Stan Simm
2500/2800/Bavaria Oil Pump Replacement............................ .......(Table of Contents)
Degree of difficulty: Advanced
Having become concerned with the long time (10 seconds) required for my 1971 oil pump to develop pressure, I decided to replace it with the newer design pump. Although this pump can be installed using the original oil sump for pre - '72 engines, I would highly recommend the newer design sump, as it contains baffles to prevent oil starvation during sudden stops and extended high G turns.
The shop manual procedure, though brief, adequately describes the change process. I do have a few suggestions. Prior to starting the job, ensure that you have a new oil pan gasket, an 8-mm allen wrench (to remove sway bar) and, most important, a supply of oil pump shims to correctly tension the oil pump drive chain.
Although the shop manual says to remove only the lower alternator bolt, the job is far smoother if you remove both alternator bolts to permit access to the power steering support bracket which also must be removed. Likewise, the clutch slave cylinder support bracket should be completely removed prior to sump removal. Once all hang-on components are out of the way, the many sump bolts can be removed. Although the manual says that the engine should be rotated until connecting rod number six is above the sump joint line, it does not say that you may experience interference from the crankshaft counterweight if you try putting number six piston at TDC position. You should be prepared to rotate the engine with a 36-mm socket on the harmonic balancer nut while jockeying the oil sump out of the way. The sump comes out quite easily if you have the crankshaft rotated to the correct position. Installation is simply a reversal of the removal procedure.
Before removing the old pump check the chain tension on the pump drive. It will probably be possible to deflect the chain about one-half inch. This is too much Ñ one-eighth inch is more like it. At any rate, add enough shims to achieve a relatively tight chain. (My pump required .6-mm worth of shims.)
While the pump is off you could pull a few bearing and connecting rod caps off to spot-check your engine's bottom end. My mains showed 30% wear after 62,000 miles, rods showed only 5% wear. While you have the alternator and power steering pump off, it would be a good idea to replace these drive belts.
I was pleasantly surprised at the output of the new pump: 15 psi increase at idle, 20 psi increase at 3000 rpm, in addition to the advertised quicker pressure buildup upon starting.
Parts Required
Shop Manual
1141 1 256 305 New-type oil pump .
1141 1 250 562 0.1-mm long shim
1141 1 250 563 0.3-mm long shim
1141 1 250 521 0.1-mm short shim
1141 1 250 522 0.3-mm short shim
1141 1 256 710 oil pump rear support
11141 1 255 646* new-type oil dipstick
111 3 1 250 090 oil sump gasket
1111 1 256 355 base for rear support
111131 256 121 new-type oil sump*Not required unless new type sump is to be installed.
Be sure to use new connecting rod nuts if you pull any connecting rod caps off, and be sure to tighten to factory specs. Although the parts list seems fairly extensive, the process is uncomplicated. As with any engine work, cleanliness is vital.
Steve Brenneman
Transmission Refill ........................................ ...............(Table of Contents)When draining your manual transmission, you do remember to remove the fill plug first, right? How would you feel if you got it drained and then couldn't get the fill plug out? When refilling using either the regular 80W non-hypoid oil, or 30W non-detergent motor oil, you can use the old trick of a kitchen baster with a length of plastic tubing fitted over the end, or if the thought of Iying under the car with lubricant running down your arm into your armpit does not appeal to you, fill the transmission from the top, using a long length of tubing and a funnel.
Six Cylinder Tips ........................................ ...................(Table of Contents)If you have moisture and crud collecting at the mating surfaces of the head and the block, retorque the head bolts in the proper sequence (see owner's manual), according to the technique described earlier in these articles.
Surging, along with a wildly jumping tach, can mean a worn vacuum advance plate, points, or distributor cam.
A starter noise which generally presents itself as you let off the starter switch may be easy to fix. Remove the starter and clean the Bendix (sliding gear which pops in and out to engage/disengage the flywheel) with BrakeKleen. A small amount of high temperature grease on the shaft may also help. The problem is associated with failure to disengage from the flywheel due to dirt or general crud on the shaft, preventing easy sliding of the starter gear.
On the 2500, the oil cap and gas cap interchange in an emergency.
If your air conditioner continually throws belts or makes noise, check the bushings on the mounts. Worn-out bushings cause the pulley to run at an angle and throw belts.
When replacing the thermostat, don't lose the rubber ring on which the thermostat sets. In order to bleed air from the coolant system upon refilling, there is a screw on the thermostat housing (see owner's manual). Have the engine running with some throttle when doing this. Squeeze hoses to remove air.
If you have the power steering pulley and the water pump pulley on the same shaft, look out for water pump failure as this will overload the water pump shaft.
Sears Foreign Auto Parts catalogue carries a carb kit for the Zenith 35/40.
Finally, if your headlight relay should fail and leave you without lights, switch the wires to the horn relay it will work. One case where it's "better to be seen than heard."
Bob Gotshall
Linkage Sticking ........................................... ........................(Table of Contents)After much effort trying to trace down a sticking gas pedal linkage, I found the problem to be an accumulation of sand and dust in the track behind the gas pedal itself. I cleaned it out and coated the track with white grease.
Ivan BeRossy
1173 Rockrimmon Road, Stamford, CT 06903
Driveshaft Repair ........................................... .......................(Table of Contents)
Talk about poor design! My 1971 2800CS is awaiting delivery of a $230 driveshaft because it needs a $10 U-joint at the rear of the driveshaft and BMW does not sell the U-joints or have available a driveshaft rebuilding program on an exchange basis as they do in Germany.
Steve Brenneman
San Diego, CaliforniaIt would have been cheaper for you to order part number 2611 1 105 398, a universal joint rebuild kit, for $24 and then pay a machine shop $6 to have the joint pressed in. It seems that BMW offers this kit for the coupes only but it looks like this same kit might fit the rest of the six-cylinder cars also.Tech Ed.
Overheating Coupe ........................................... ........................(Table of Contents)
My 1971 2800CS has overheated in summer traffic since it was new but has always run cool when motoring steadily at over 30 miles per hour. If your car overheats at steady speeds, you have other problems: clogged radiator, faulty thermostat, non-sealing pressure cap, etc. This fix will solve your problems if you have none of the above deficiencies.
I added an electric cooling fan, made by Flex-a-Lite, available from good old J. C. Whitney (catalog number 73-2889W) for $60. 1 do not have air conditioning on this car, with the condenser coil and fans already mounted up front. The fan mounts with four long bolts thin enough to slip between the fins in the radiator. It is controlled by a thermostatic switch which has a sensor that is placed inside the upper radiator hose. The switch is adjustable, and I set mine to turn on at 180° so that the fan will operate only in city traffic. My coupe will now idle continuously in 95° heat and the temperature gauge never exceeds the halfway point.
Steve Brenneman
San Diego, California
2800CS Cylinder Head Query ............................. ........................(Table of Contents)
One of the journals on which the cam rests in my 2800CS has been gouged by a foreign piece of dirt or metal. My understanding is that there are no provisions for repairing such an ailment via a sleeve, bushing or whatever. I also understand that the problem of this defect would be a loss of oil pressure to the other two cam journals due to the improper seal at the damaged journal and hence a leakage of oil pressure there. Can you comment on the legitimacy of this diagnosis, the seriousness of this defect, and what I can do about it? W.E. Miller, 1043-3 Cross Keys Road, Lexington, KY 40504.
The diagnosis on your 2800CS is a valid one and not altogether uncommon on earlier six-cylinder cars. You possibly may be able to get away without replacing it but in the long run it is cheaper to pay the bill and do the job only once than to spend the costs of the head and rocker assemblies twice. Used heads for the sixes are hard to come by and when available their condition is often questionable, being pockmarked in the combustion chambers or having bad valve seats. In short, replace the cylinder head ASAP. Michel Potheau, Tech Editor.
Don't Forget the Gaskets ....................................... ........................(Table of Contents)
If you're a 2800 or 3.0 owner and happen to be carrying around a spare thermostat (an excellent suggestion!), don't forget to have the necessary gaskets on hand as well. They are: 11 531 250 357 and 11 531 250 399. For a total of less than 80 cents, why take a chance?
Stan Simm
Locked Fan Clutches Pose Potential Danger ...............................(Table of Contents)
A word of caution to those six cylinder owners who have drilled out the holes in their friction fan couplings so as to lock the mechanism up with M6 x 30 mm screws, thereby allowing the fan to run continuously: If the screws have been over-torqued, there is a possibility that one or more of the four aluminum bosses around the bearing of the clutch drum may have cracked. If this occurs, it will cant the fan blades at an angle and cause an imbalance that can be detected as fore and aft "run-out" just a few thousandths of an inch off at the center can mean up to a quarter of an inch or more variation at the end of the blades.
The condition can be observed easily with the aid of a strobe light or, if severe, can be seen at idle without too much trouble. If this defect is not corrected immediately, the fan will develop a mind of its own and decide to rapidly bore a hole through the radiator. The remedy required is to replace the clutch (expensive) or to substitute an aluminum plate in its stead. Anyone who would like a drawing of this adapter may obtain same by sending me a request with a stamped, self-addressed envelope.
By all means, if you suspect that this may be the case with your fan clutch, check it or have it checked immediately! This is a potentially dangerous situation.
Stan Simm 346 West End Blvd., Winston-Salem, NC 27101
'73 Bavaria Modifications and Experiences ..... ........................(Table of Contents)
Here are a few comments and experiences on owning a '73 Bavaria. I am somewhat competition oriented and hope that others may find this information helpful.
To improve handling I recommend the factory available 24-mm front sway bar with a 19-mm rear. Couple these with Bilstein shocks (standard, not sports) all around and lots of rubber. Currently I am running 205/70 x VS on stock rims with absolutely no interference. If you are into autocrossing you can run FR60 Goodrich TA on stock rims with no problems. GR60 will not fit, however, without touching the front wheel struts. Also, if you fit Bilstein shocks be sure to remove the spacer rings from the top of the struts. With the above set-up the Bavaria will ride a lot harsher, but it will also improve cornering considerably.
The biggest problem I have encountered in autocrossing is the lack of a limited slip and springs which are too soft, causing the inside rear wheel to lift in a tight corner. This results in high engine revs and no go. A rev limiter rotor button is probably the cheapest engine insurance available and I would recommend it to any BMW owner who likes to put his car through its gears once in a while.
I have used a Delta 10B CD and can only say it prolonged point life and made the tack erratic as hell. There is a circuitry change that can be done to correct this, I am sure.
About desmogging my EGR filter disintegrated at 40K miles. I took all the plumbing off and plugged the 3 manifold holes with aircraft-type fittings. Timing has been left at stock, ditto on jets, but the small hole in the bottom of the accelerator pump was sealed with a hot screwdriver blade. The vacuum retard has been disconnected and the carbs readjusted to give a 900 Ñ 1000 rpm idle. Vacuum advance comes straight from the rear carb.
With 69K miles on my Bavaria I've gone through four sets of tires, a water pump, drive shaft doughnut, drive shaft center bearing support, clutch master cylinder, and a battery. The air conditioning is next to useless, but all in all I have had no complaints, considering l drive very hard. Autocrossing accounts for my rather low tire mileage. Compression is 150 psi in all cylinders and a quart of Kendall 20W-50 lasts about 2,000 miles.
Phil Williamson
Bavaria Comments ........................................... ........................(Table of Contents)
After 40,000 miles of driving my 1970 2500 around southern Europe, here are some observations and notes of interest. A constant squealing noise from two different throwout bearings was fixed by spring-loading the disengaged clutch lever with a spring taken from the accelerator pedal assembly Six cylinder owners can determine whether or not this fix will work for them by placing the car in neutral and manually moving the clutch throwout lever to the front of the car while the engine is running. If the squeal stops, devise a spring arrangement to place a similar preload on the lever.
Bosch W175T2 plugs (too hot), W225T2 (too hot) and W200T30 (short life) were all used before settling on Champion N9Ys. All plugs were used with stock ignition advance and Delta Mark lOCD unit. After two Porsches and one BMW, Champion extended tip plugs definitely get the nod before Bosch and NGK.
Britax single handed automatic inertia type belts were installed. These are excellent, being the type that lock up only upon relatively severe deceleration Ñ they normally permit complete freedom of movement. At a cost of about $20 each, they are available from Britax Ltd., Byfleet Surrey KT14 7AW, Great Britain.
I still have squealing brakes in spite of a number of reputed fixes. Think BMW should go to a floating caliper system? The original type woven fuel line doesn't seem to last very long, so inspect it now and make plans to replace with the American neoprene type. The transistorized voltage regulator (88-6137) from J. C. Whitney at $12.98 is a perfect fit replacement for the Bosch unit. Firestone 205/70x14 tires on Remotec rims seven inches wide greatly improved the handling without degrading the ride too much. No body or chassis interference of any kind has been noted. By the way, Corvette wheel bearings fit the front of the BMW six cylinders.
Has anyone compared effectiveness versus cost in the matter of shock absorbers? SPAX adjustable shocks are quite a bit cheaper than Konis, at least here in Europe. How do they wear? Do the Bilsteins increase ride harshness?
The sixes have a severe Achilles heel for rusting at the leading edge of the hood. There is a giant crevice area all along the front edge with only two tiny drain holes toward the middle. Make sure these are always clean or you will have instant rust from the inside out. Better yet, enlarge these holes and drill additional ones. Be sure to coat the edges so rust won't start in the holes.
Steve Brenneman, 629 Meadows Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23462.
Intake Manifold Plugs ................................................. .......(Table of Contents)
If your EGR System has mysteriously "disappeared," you've probably been searching for a reliable method of plugging the intake manifold fittings. Metric cap nuts are hard to find in the States.
There is a simple and inexpensive fix. Obtain two M10x1 bolts (that's 10-mm in diameter and 1-mm thread pitch, folks!) Try to get them 12-mm long or something less than that. If necessary, cut to length. Remove the fittings that protrude from the intake manifolds with a 19-mm wrench, then replace with your new bolts. Be sure to use a copper gasket ring on each or a couple of drops of LOC-TITE on the threads to ensure a good seal.
If you care to order factory parts for this application, they are: Plug Screw M10x1 P/N 0711 9 919112 and Seal Ring 10 x 13.5 P/N 0711 9 963 073.
Stan Simm
Vapor Lock Problem Solved................................................. .......(Table of Contents)In response to the vapor lock problem put forth by Ron Thomas in the December 1977 Roundel, I can offer the following.
I had the same problem with my '72 Bavaria and suffered with it through the summers of 1972 and 1973. 1 tried insulation as you did with no success. The solution as suggested by my BMW dealer, Autosport by Juri, Vestal, New York, was to replace the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one located on the firewall near the windshield wiper motor, not on the engine compartment side. I'll leave it to common sense to figure out how to route the fuel line. Power for the fuel pump is obtained from the ignition switch side of the ballast resistor as there is an extra spade connection available.
After this installation I have not had a single vapor lock nor have I had to provide any extra fuel line insulation.
Paul and Kathy Vasek
Carburetor Parts For 6 Cylinder Owners.............................. .......(Table of Contents)
Your six cylinder has Zenith 35-40 INAT carburetors and, if you plan to work on them, here's some information well worth retaining. Mercedes Benz models 220SB, 230, 230s, 250S, 250C, 280S, 280C use the same basic carburetor. For instance, M-B 000-071-07-18 accelerator pump piston is the same as old BMW 1311 1 255 997, superseded by 1311 1 262 879. Funny thing the M-B part lists for $12.89, the BMW for $13.03. Pretty close, though.
Sears Part No. C28HD65024V is the Beck-Arnley Rebuild Kit #162-8536 (ZE-12K) and costs $5.89, plus shipping. Karzundpartz member price is $4.75 each. I've seen 'em elsewhere listed as high as $13.25!
Stan Simm
Tachometer Bounce ...... ................................................. .......(Table of Contents).
A symptom which comes up once in a while for no apparent reason is the tach bouncing up by about 2000 rpm, going back to zero, and then resuming normal operation. Another symptom is the inability to get the same dwell reading on consecutive attempts. Yet another symptom is worsening gas mileage immediately after a tune up.
These symptoms may be caused by a worn-out breaker plate. This is the assembly, comprised of two sections, onto which the points are mounted. Excessive wear will cause the points to "bounce" periodically. This can be corrected by merely replacing the breaker plate assembly, which costs about $10 and is available from anyone who sells Bosch ignitions. The replacement unit comes with points and is a drop-in installation. It is also a better design than the original unit.
Michel Potheau, Tech Editor
E3 Sticking Odometer Fix ................................................. .......(Table of Contents)
That's always the way it is (odometer giving out), because they are two different mechanisms, and the odometers always bust. It's easy enough to get the instrument cluster out, take the speedo out ( I think you have to unscrew the printed circuitboard first, then the speedo), and have a look. (I don't remember if 72s have a one- or two-part dash, so I won't offer instructions.) However, I caution you against trying to take the odo/speedo guts off the black instrument face, since doing so requires removing the speedometer needle. In any case, the offending part on the odometer, accessible without taking the needle and black face off, is the first little gear on the cluster of gears that moves the primary (not the trip) odometer. This little gear seems to work loose of the shaft and fails to turn, hence failing to turn the other gears. (The description will be clearer once you're looking at the speedo head, I hope). The solution that worked for me, without disassembling the speedo, is to leave the entire assembly together and very carefully pull/push the shaft far enough out of the cluster of gears (using screwdrivers, pliers, teeth, whatever), towards the side with the slipping gear. I found it easier to start by levering off the brass collar on the opposite side, then pushing the shaft through the cluster, but not too much, you don't want to disassemble the thing, just slide it over). Then you can use a pair of needle-nose pliers to rough up the shaft where you think it comes into contact with the slipping gear. I mean -really- rough it up, too. Then press the whole thing back together using aforementioned tools. If you've roughed up the shaft enough in the right place, it should no longer allow the gear to slip. Viola! Problem fixed.
If the slipping gear is visibly cracked, this might not work. Also, it took me a couple of tries to get the gear to stick, but once you've taken the cluster out once, it's easy. Finally, while you're in there, make sure to reset your odometer to zero. Yippee! New car.
E3/E9 Gauge hock ................................................. .......(Table of Contents)
If you root around junk yards, you can usually find mid 80's VW's/Audi's with all three gauges - temp, amps, and oil pressure. You typically pay $25 for the set. Also, there are two styles used: big white block letters are dorky while there are others with smaller letters which IMO have genuine Eurofague savoir faire
I am 95% sure that these gauges will work with standard VDO senders.
Yes, they will. Just get the correct range sender for the gauge.
I think that the threads for the VW/Audi senders are different from those for BMW's. Senders might fit in an M10 but probably not an M30
You'll need an adapter for the oil pressure sender. Pegasus Auto Racing has them, plus lots of other neat stuff. My oil filter mount had a tapped hole with a plug in it; took that out and the oil temp sender fit there perfectly.
Steve
Suspension Bushings et al ................................................. .......(Table of Contents)
grahamt@mindspring.com writes:
<< While I was down there, I was reminded that my suspension bushings andassorted rubber bits were in generally poor shape. How much trouble and whatspecial tools would be required to replace all the bushings front and back? >>
Graham: generally speaking you do not need many/any specialty tools. In front, there is a compliance bushing that if replaced will more isolate the front axle carrier and enhance feel. Also covering that bushing is a cupped disk type washer that if "enhanced" with the addition of a large washer underneath will further heighten your driving enjoyment. The sway bar bushings can be renewed with new ones. There are no urethane/graphite impregnated after-market types available, I've broken my neck looking. You will have to use OEM rubber. Sway bar ends can be found in urethane and will offer some enhancement. The biggest bang for the buck is the replacement on the control arm bushings with urethane/plastic ones. You will need a hydraulic press to push out the old ones and maybe re-install. Be sure your ball joints are worthy otherwise get new control arms. Mesa has the enhanced control arm bushings. I think I paid about $50. for the front. Maximillian for the sway bar rubbers (cheap) and Bavarian Autosport for the sway bar end links. About $20. for the pair.
In the rear, there are optional sway bar rubbers and end links like above. But there are the urethane rear trailing arm bushings from Jim @Mesa that are simply great. About $50 again. Additionally, there are two frame/rear suspension bushings that are available to renew. I forget exactly what there are called but are integral to rear end compliance and firmness. Can like in shape, they are attached to either side of the unibody and rear end. They are BMW only and cost like $55 each. Lastly, I replaced my diff mount only because I was determined to do all the rubber where practical. An easy remove/replace and it cost almost $60 from Bavarian Autosport.
I think that's about it unless I have forgotten some. Maybe some otherbushing maven can offer you more.
Jim Clark #35
Six Cylinder Voltage Regulator Sub .................................. .......(Table of Contents)
The Ford/Mercury p/n DIRY 10316C voltage regulator as used in the 1973 and later 2600 and 2800 Capri is the exact duplicate of the Bosch regulator (not electronic) used on many six-cylinder BMWs. Lincoln Mercury dealers will want $28.50 for this part. Local part stores will want less than $20 if they stock it.
Walter Light
Check Your Power Steering Reservoir Hose................... .......(Table of Contents)
If your 6 cylinder has or has had a messy battery, you should check the condition of the hose leading from the power steering fluid reservoir to the pump. This cotton-braided hose is highly susceptible to deterioration.
If you're in need of a replacement, obtain about 18" of Gates 10 LOR (or equivalent) 5/8" ID Hose from any industrial hose supply house, a couple of new worm gear clamps, and a quart of the appropriate automatic transmission fluid as called out in your owner's or factory shop manual. (There are too many approved brands to list here.)
The tricky part is retrieving the old fluid from the reservoir and the hose without spilling it all over the place. I used a turkey baster to remove most of it from the reservoir, then I attached a couple of feet of small diameter plastic hose to the baster with a short piece of vacuum hose used as a "coupler." The plastic hose was small enough in diameter to pass through one of the holes in the baffle plate at the bottom of the reservoir that was just above the hose to be replaced. After about 15 minutes of "reverse" basting, you should be able to remove all of the ATF down to the pump fitting. Then, when you remove the hose, it will be a relatively dry job.
Measure and cut the new hose using the old one as a guide, put the new clamps on the new hose, install and tighten the clamps, then refill the reservoir. Check the level with the engine running.
Stan Simm
Power Steering Power Takeoff Modification ................... .......(Table of Contents)
The 1972 Bavaria and earlier six-cylinder models had the power steering pump belt takeoff on the water pump. This situation puts a great lateral load on the water pump shaft bushing which in conjunction with the alternator belt load leads to an early failure of the water pump. Wishing to avoid this, I moved the power steering pump belt to the crankshaft.
If you have air conditioning you will need a combination pulley air conditioner and power steering Ñ and a smaller radiator fan to avoid interference. Without the air conditioning, try the following.
Purchase BMW pulley 32 41 1259 343 (about $9) and the 8-mm bolts that go with it. Purchase Dayco automotive drive belt 15345/662 (about $4). Mark the position of the torsional damper relative to the crankshaft and remove. Align the pulley and damper holes, noting that these go together in one way only. Using red Loctite, torque the 8mm bolts to 16 ft/lbs after placing the pulley and the damper together. Install the Dayco belt and tension. The existing pump adjustment bracket works nicely here. Make sure that all four bolts are adjusted to properly align the pump pulley with the crankshaft pulley.
You will not notice any change in the power steering, although you will get less belt squeal at low rpm when turning the wheel while the car is stopped.
Victor N . Vagliente
Many people will tighten the power steering belt when they hear a noise. More often than not on pre-1974 models, the alternator belt is loose and this, not the power steering belt, is making the noise. Tech Ed.)
Six Cylinder Power Steering Hose ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
A factory replacement for the high pressure power steering hose costs about $65. It is possible to make a perfectly serviceable replacement by salvaging the two attaching ends of the defective hose. These are threaded into the compression fitting at each end of the hose and can be unscrewed. A little grinding will permit them to be welded to American S.A.E. high pressure fittings which can then be assembled into a replacement hose. A local shop did this for me at the bargain price of $6.
Walter Light
Bavaria Sway Bars ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
Your BMW dealer has Dart 71601 104 533, listing for $78.95. This kit includes front and rear 19-mm sway bars with all mounting hardware . Check your Bavaria's serial number with the parts manager to see if this kit can be fitted to your car. My 1971 Bavaria with air conditioning has had no problems with these bars. If the proper bar is not fitted, the A/C compressor can hit the bar when you brake, eventually breaking the bracket. This bar has a dip in it to clear the compressor.
Ken Hillers
Bavaria Halfshaft Joints ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
Those of you who wish to repack the velocity joints of the Bavaria halfshafts should take care to ensure a tight seal of the boots after regreasing. The original clamp does not seem to hold tightly after having once been loosened and regular screw-type clamps are too wide. Try using a VW screw-type clamp Ñ it will hold tightly and not cut the material of the boot. Greasing should be done at around 80,000 miles.
Victor N. Vagliente
Noisy Bavaria Brakes ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
Help! My 1972 Bavaria 3.0 automatic's brakes squeal enough to drive other drivers crazy! The pads have been changed, roughed up, anti-squeal spray has been used, but all to no avail. The local dealer says that nothing will help and that "they all do it." Softer pads might help but I would have to change them every 10,000 miles or so. Suggestions?
Warren Seder, 95 Mohawk Drive, West Hartford, CT 06117.
The following steps can be taken to eliminate brake squeal in most six-cylinders: 1) bleed the brakes thoroughly 2) clean the contact area on the pistons 3) check and adjust wheel bearings 4) rough up the back, not the lining, of the pads 5) make an insert the same size and shape of either teflon or roof flashing material and install between pad and pistons 6) if none of the above work, either live with the noise or trade the car!
Michel Potheau, Tech Editor.
Six Cylinder Brake Tips ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
Perhaps one of the more common problems has been squealing disc brakes on the larger BMW's. Several steps can be taken to eliminate this problem.
1) change to new pads, as most pads begin to squeal when they wear,
2) bleed brakes and/or change brake fluid,
3) clean contact area on pistons,
4) check and adjust wheel bearings, and
5) rough up the back, not the front, of the pads where they contact the pistons. Also,
6) make an insert of the same size as the pad of teflon or roof flashing material and instal between pads and pistons,
7) bevel the leading edges and trailing edges of the lining,
8) check with your dealer or other club members. Never use grease or oil around contact surfaces of brake and rotor; use only solutions specifically designed for cleaning brakes.
Bob Gotshall
2500/2800/Bavaria/3.0Si Rear Shock Removal ............... .......(Table of Contents)
As an alternative and simpler approach to removing the three top nuts on the rear shocks as described in the August '77 Roundel, page 36, try the following:
1. Remove back of rear seat.
2. Remove package shelf cover.
3. Three access holes directly above each shock will be accessible after peeling back the tarpaper-like cover used to seal them. The nuts on the top of the shocks are now directly accessible via a short extension on your ratchet wrench.
Walt Light
When following this procedure, be careful not to hit (and break) the rear window with the ratchet handle. Also, put some duct tape on the holes you have left in the tarpaper. This will prevent exhaust gas from entering the car.Tech Ed.
Checking and Renewing Disc Brake Pads All BMWs....... .......(Table of Contents)
One of these days your faithful BMW is going to need brake pad replacement on the front wheels of a four, or on all four wheels of a six cylinder. Worn brake pads show up in increased pedal travel, but the actual mileage you'll get from a set depends on your model of BMW, the type of pads you use, and your driving. Obviously the city driver will go through pads faster than the cross-country traveler.
If your brakes pull severely to one side or you hear a metal-to-metal grinding, you may need professional attention. But if you do it yourself, you'll find that brake pad work is one of the simplest jobs you can do on a BMW.
Before buying new pads and assembling tools, check the brake discs (mechanics call them rotors) themselves. Following carefully the directions in your owner's manual, jack up in turn each wheel that has a disc brake; if you are jacking on a driveway, gravel, or soft ground, put a board under the jack, and be sure to set the handbrake and chock the diagonally opposite wheel. Before removing the wheel, mark one stud and one hole so you can put it back the same way and preserve your wheel balance.
The (apparently) polished metal surface you'll see after removing the wheel is the disc. It won't be perfectly smooth, but if there are deep ridges better forget this project and call your dealer or mechanic without delay. If the rotor looks OK, proceed to check and/or replace the pads.
Tools needed: punch or blunt nail; hammer; large pliers (in tool kit of sixes); medium sized screwdriver; tape, a small brush; chalk. Pads are available from BMW dealers, ROUNDEL advertisers, and many foreign car stores. Be sure to specify the year and model of your BMW. Cost for one set of four pads (two wheels should run $10 to $20. Important: always replace pads in set of four (one axle).
The housing that appears to engage the disc is called the caliper. It contains pistons that squeeze the pads against the rotor to stop the wheel from turning. You can see the brake pads in the open end of the caliper.
To remove the pads, drive out the retaining pins with hammer and punch or blunt nail. Mark position of installed brake pads with chalk if the pads aren't worn, you must put them back in the same relative positions. With your screwdriver, engage in turn the two holes in the end of each pad and gently pry the pad out. There may also be a shim or spacer which is later replaced in the same position, so mark it too. Check the pads for thickness; many pads have wear grooves replace the pad if it's worn down to or near the bottom of the groove(s). On grooveless pads, replace if there is l/8 inch or less remaining above the metal base of the pad.
Next, clean out the caliper, pads, shims, and spring with your brush. To install pads, you must compress the pistons inside the caliper. Front calipers have two pistons on each side, rear calipers one on each side. Use your large pliers wrapped in tape so you won't scratch the pistons. Compress pistons until you can slide pads in easily. Replace the cross spring and retaining pins, taking care to drive the pins all the way in. Replace wheel and tire, matching the previous holes and lugs, replace wheel cover or hub cap and trim ring.
After you complete each wheel, pump the brake pedal to move the pistons against the new or replaced pads. Otherwise the brake fluid reservoir could overflow as you are forcing brake fluid back through the system when you depress the calipers. The factory suggests siphoning off some of the brake fluid from the reservoir with an instrument used solely for brake fluid, but you probably won't find this necessary if you do one wheel at a time and then pump the pedal.
Try to avoid panic stops and hard braking during the first 350 miles with new brake pads just as when the car was new. New pads may squeal at first, but ordinarily the noise diminishes with use. Now when your chapter has its next tech session, you'll be able to tell everybody what a great job did and how much money you saved! Just think, you can throw around terms like caliper, rotor, etc.and can even show others how to do it.
Stan Simm
Brake Warning Light Fix ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
If your brake warning light stays on when the handle is all the way down, raise the rubber boot at the rear of the handle and look for the small nylon pad, attached to a small coil spring, with the rear of the spring secured on the right side by a Phillips head screw. The sliding screw might be loose, causing the light to come on. Adjust the screw so the light comes on after the brake handle is raised one or two notches. Note that the ignition switch must be on to activate the light. By the way, is the release button on the handbrake lever slowly disappearing into the handle so that you can barely release it? Well, the button is staying there, but the grip is slowly creeping off the handle. To fix, simply raise the handle and twist or slide the grip back into place.
Shocked! ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
I said you would not be snowed in this column and I'm going to try to refrain from being too technical, no matter how much it hurts. However, for those of you with sixes who have decided to change your own shocks, here are a few suggestions.
1. For the rear shocks: Get yourself a 1 3-mm ratcheting box end wrench. You will find it greatly shortens the time needed to tighten the 3 nuts at the top of each rear strut. These are located in a very restricted
2. For the front shocks: At the step where you start to disassemble the front strut, you remove the cap covering the top of the strut and see a problem. There is a 11-mm hex located on the threaded end of the shock absorber operating rod with a 27-mm nut around it. Both of these are recessed into a cup which is part of the front suspension thrust bearing. The threaded shaft with its hex end must be held while the outer nut is loosened. The fact that they are both recessed prevents the use of normal wrenches. A solution is to buy an extra deep, 1/2 inch drive, 1-1/16 socket (close enough to metric, cheaper and easier to find). Grind off the slick external plating and grind a few flats on the outside. Then run a 3/8 inch drive extension bar through the 1/2 inch drive hole of the 1-1/16 socket and put an 11-mm 3/8 inch drive socket on the extension within the 1-1/16 socket. The hex end of the socket was held with the 11-mm socket, extension bar, and ratchet while turning the nut off with the 1-1/16 inch socket powered by a pipe wrench (remember the flats ground on the exterior). Care must be taken when selecting these tools that the 11-mm socket fits within the 1-1/16 extra deep socket and that the 3/8 inch drive extension bar does not have so large a flange so as to prevent feeding through the 1/2 inch square drive hole. Craftsman tools worked for me.
These suggestions apply both to the Bavaria and 530i models.
Note that this applies to one of the final steps in disassembling the front struts and that it is done after the spring are compressed and the struts hanging out of the car. This should not be attempted with the strut in place.
Another way of doing this is to pull at an angle on the shock bearing cup putting a sidewards force on the cartridge and hence permitting removal of the 27-mm nut. Tech Ed.
Disc Brake Piston Holders ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
If you replace your own disc brake pads, the best thing I've found to retract the pistons is a conventional drum brake adjuster. Place the tip of the adjuster on the inside edge of the disc, and the 45 degree elbow in the recess in the piston. This provides enough leverage and won't tear the rubber dust covers.
Bavaria Handling Question Answered ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
Many of my competitors in the modified sixcylinder class at the Oktoberfest autocross this past year asked nne, "How do you get your Bavaria to run so good and handle so well?"
Answer: My 1973 four-speed Bavaria has an absolutely stock engine, with 86K on the clock. The suspension has sport Bilsteins at all four corners, stock springs, and stock 6x14 steel wheels..
I use 205/70 XVS tires that have 30K on them, 42 psi in front, 36 in the rear. I have a 23-mm front bar and a 19-mm rear bar. The spacers have been removed from the front struts, which is necessary with the Bilsteins anyway. The spring perches for the rear springs are in whatever notch it is that makes the car sit level.
I should have 6l/2" or 7" rims for those 205 tires but my budget (wife) will not allow it. Have to run what I brung!
What I need for Oktoberfest '79 is a set of camber plates for the front and to either raise the front roll center or lower the rear roll centergot to keep that inside rear wheel on the ground somehow. Maybe a limited slip, too, but at $1000 + . . .
I hope that this will tell people that super mods and many $$$ are not needed to make a car go fast.
Phil Williamson
Brake Fluid Changing Made Easy ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
(Reprinted from the Connecticut Valley Chapter's Die Zeitung.)
Changing brake fluid once a year is definitely a must, if you value and appreciate the Bimmer's quick stopping ability. You will need about three 12-ounce cans of recommended brake fluid, either Ate blue, Wagner 21-B, or Castrol GT LMA. You will also need a 7mm box-end wrench, a one pint plastic bottle, about one hour of your time, enough 1/4 " inside-diameter clear plastic tubing to go from bleeder valves to the collector bottle, and a nice day.
Place one end of the tubing into the bottle so that tubing touches a bottom corner and tape it at the bottle mouth so it will not pull out. Leave an opening at the mouth so that old fluid can be poured out of the bottle into a just-emptied can of brake fluid. Pour about an ounce of brake fluid into the bottle, either new fluid or some syringed from the car's reservoir. This keeps air from being sucked into the system. At the proper time, the end of the tubing will slip over the brake bleeders as you release them and the old fluid will fill the bottle. If you can place the bottle on some sort of support, fine, but it should be able to stand by itself, since you will be going from wheel to pedal and back to wheel. Be prepared to remove each wheel as you bleed that wheel's brakes.
The proper order to bleed the system is: right rear, left rear,-right front, left front, and finally clutch. Yes, the clutch must be included to do the whole thing right (see Roundel, October-November, 1974, p. 28). At each front disc, the three valves are done in this order: front valve, inside valve, outside rear valve. Now for the fun.
Remove the right rear wheel. Just forward of the shock tower is a little valve stem with a rubber Ate cap on its end. That is the bleed valve. The base has a 7mm hex nut. Clean the area around each valve as you begin to pull off the cap. Slip the wrench over the nut, and the plastic tubing over the end of the valve. Now loosen nut until fluid just starts to ooze into the tubing. If you loosen too much, you will just make a nice mess over everything. Go to the brake pedal and press three or four times. Fluid will be forced through the tubing into your collecting bottle. Watch the brake fluid reservoir! Do not allow fluid to fall below the dividing barrier top atthe bottom of the reservoir. If you have a one section reservoir, as in older fours with a mechanical clutch, don't let the fluid level fall below two-thirds down. If the fluid level falls too far, air will be sucked into the system, which means you will have to start all over again, using up even more of that expensive brake fluid. As you are pumping the pedal, check for color change in the tubing going into the collecting bottle. Hint: if you use different colored fluid for each change, like alternating between Ate blue and Castrol GT LMA, you can tel I when al I of the old f I u id is out of the tubing, as the color will change. However, there is a noticeable color change between old fluid and new fluid.
Keep pumping until the color change occurs. Replenish the reservoir as you need to, and continue pumping. The right rear will take many pumps, as you have to purge the longest line and all of the old fluid in the reservoir. Subsequent wheels will take fewer pumps. When the new fluid comes out into your collecting bottle bubble-free, tighten up the valve, being careful not to let any air back in, or slosh fluid from the tubing over anything. Clean the area of any brake fluid dribbles. Replace the wheel and proceed to the left rear, proceeding as above.
Front wheel discs have three valves on each caliper. Proceed in correct order as outlined above, and follow the same procedure. Lastly, the clutch slave cylinder gets bled. It is on the driver's side of the transmission and the bleeder valve is at the front end. Bleed as you would a wheel. Top up the reservoir, press on the brake pedal hard Ñ if there is no leakage, you are done. Check for leaks from under the car before you drive away!
Helpful notes: if you can get a friend to help you, he or she can do the pedal pumping and reservoir filling, while you handle the wheel valves; do not allow air into the system since this will necessitate starting the entire job all over again; to be on the safe side, get an extra can or two of fluid Ñ use only recommended fluids as others may eat away the rubber seals in the system; brake fluid is vile stuff, so don't eat it, drink it, or get it on any painted surface; do not overtighten the valves, as they can be stripped easily; test drive the car and brake heavily several times Ñ if the system is tight, all wheel valves will be dry and there will be no decrease in the brake pedal level.
Robert Yohe, 31-D Robbins Lane,rocky Hill, CT 06067, (203) 563-3220 , and
Warren Markey, 137 Wells Road, Granby, CT 06035, (203) 653-3224.
Wheel Bearing Interchangeability ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
The following are the Timken Company's front wheel bearings made for BMWs. Bearings are pretty much the same through all manufacturer's lines and there is no reason to pay the BMW dealer's mark-up. The first number is the bearing and the second is the race. You will have to pick up the seals from a BMW dealer.
1966-74 Bavaria, 3.0CS/CSi/CSL/S/Si, 3.3L, 520, 525, 520i, 1800,1800TI, 2000, 2000CS/CA/TI, 2002TI, 2002tii, Touring 2002tii, 2500, 2800, 3000 V8, Turbo:
inner- LM67010, LM67048, outer- LM11910, LM 11949.As of this writing, we are working on the same type of list for rear wheel bearings. Bear in mind that much of the above information is according to various listings not all of them have been checked in use, but there is no reason to doubt their accuracy.
Dave Toy. 10604 Democracy Lane, Potomac, MD 20854.
Sway Bar Tip ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
Protect the threaded ends of the sway bar connecting arms by turning them upside down. Just remove the two nuts and reinstall with the head of the bolts facing down. If you're worried that the threaded ends will hit the strut, you may be correct, but only when the suspension is at full extension, as when the car is jacked up.
Eric Schoenholz, 1929 Boulevard, West Hartford, CT 06107, (203) 521-1120.
Seat Belt Retractor Repaired ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
The seat belt retractor in my '73 Bavaria had become a problem. O.K. in summer, but the belt wouldn't feed out in cold weather. Professional counsel seemed reluctant to try a fix, so I tried it, and was successful.
First requirement was removal of plastic snap-cover, and then exposed bolt from frame. Then, carefully, the inside trim panel was removed from the door-post, starting from the bottom corners, and unsnapping the several plastic pins.
The retractor housing was then removed by removal of one bolt. Electrical wires came out by removing the plastic center cap, prying up the side toward the wires, removing the screw on the metal wire-cover, and then lifting out the wire sensors.
The retractor cylinder has two black plastic covers at its end. It seemed inadvisable to remove the one housing the strong steel spring which can be seen through the hole vacated by the electrical sensor. My problem was in the other end.
By prying off the plastic cap with a knife, I confirmed that a seasonal oil change could not have affected the action.
The most obvious action was normal. The slow-pull allowed belt to feed out, and fast-pull caused an eccentric to engage.
The culprit was a tiny hook formed of spring steel wire, the function of which is to hold the belt fast on about anything but straight-and-level. It reaches out and engages whenever its three-dimensional frame varies from any vertical, and in sudden acceleration or deceleration.
The fix is judgmental and experimental. Gently bend the hook inward so it is less able to engage the corresponding wire which revolves with the hub as the belt is pulled out.
After adjusting, the action can be tested before installing by holding the retractor while reeling out the belt, simulating various positions the car might assume.
Reinstallation was a simple reversal of removal. I was pleased that the trim panel on the door post shows no signs of the procedure. Belt action seems perfect in all respects.
Carter Fratt
Fan Clutch Kit ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
Another kit I've put together is for 2500, 2800, and 3.0 Bavaria owners with fan clutch failures. Try the fan clutch used on the 3.0Si and 530i. The old style fan clutch, part number 11.52.1.251.821, sells for $90.81, which is outrageous. The new one is much more reliable. It is still outrageously priced but is worth it if you are having over-heating problems.
The parts needed for this conversion are:
Clutch 11.52.1.264.469 $108.41
Multiple Blade Fan 11.52.1.259.802 12.10
Installation Kit 19.61
TOTAL $140.1 2We've sold many of these kits, and it's also a simple bolt-in installation.
Jim Kosturik
Knauz Continental Autos
Lake Forest, Illinois
CB's And Bavaria ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
But who wants the hassle of having your pride broken into because of a telltale antenna? Of course you can take the CB out every time you relinquish the car to the vagaries of the world (i.e. watch some parking lot lout do donuts in reverse). All of this can be avoided by the following two-step plan. First, buy or win as a door prize a Cobra 19. This unit is small enough to fit in the door of the left-hand under-dash compartment. With the door closed no evil eagle-eye can spot it. Then in place of the usual add-on CB antenna, purchase an antenna adapter that will allow you to use your car antenna. This will not perform like an add-on for serious CB'ing, but it will do the job for road reports. Thus you have succeeded in foiling the evil ones and at the same time have achieved the utmost of convenience.
Bavaria CB Location ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
Thought I'd pass along what I think is the ideal location for a CB in the Bavaria series cars. A slide-out bracket bolts neatly to the drop-down door for the hood release; drill holes right through it and use large washers inside the door to distribute the load across the slightly flimsy structure. Drill a 1/4 inch hole at the bottom of the door and run the wire ends from the bracket inside the door, to keep them out of sight.
Take the long wires that came with your CB and run them right through the hood release tube and into the engine compartment, where you can bolt the power lead right to the battery terminal nut and the ground to any good ground. PA speaker wires can be routed the same way, and the speaker itself can be dropped down, horn up, behind the left headlight assembly, where it will happily rest without any bolts. Friendly greetings from a passing BMW will amaze your pedestrian types!
Antennas will mount nicely on the left rear deck edge, which is a better location than the front edge of the deck, as it affords better signal propagation. Run the coax cable (sans connector) through the ventilation slots or headrest holes in the rear deck area into your car's interior.
In eight months of CB'ing, I've talked to only two other BMWs. That's a shame knowing where Smokey's at has put the fun back into driving again for me. Next time you're near Springfield, Va., give a shout to Sky King and we'll have us a BMW convoy.
Gary W. Allen
If the CB is mounted on the drop-down door for the hood release, the latch might have to be readjusted to assure that the door is still retained tightly. Mine once opened on a bump and prevented me from getting to the clutch. Further, hooking up the CB directly to the battery without a fuse could lead to an electrical fire if the wire should somehow short against the chassis, and the radio will always be "on" unless manually turned off when the car is stopped
Ed Vozek, Six Cyl. Ed.
Window Trim Strip Bavaria ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
The suggestion applies to fellow Bavaria owners who have chips or holes in the black plastic portion of the window aperture outer trim strip. This particular strip appears to be one of the components on the Bavaria especially susceptible to cracking or chipping. A check with your local parts man will show that the entire outer trim strip must be ordered to replace just the plastic section.
I found those plastic chrome trim strips normally applied to door edges for the prevention of accidental chipping solved the problem for my Bavaria. I purchased two sets, each set containing two strips 33 inches in length at 97¢ per set and had enough to cover all four doors. Installation is simple and can be accomplished in about 30 minutes; simply lift one end of the black strip with a flat-bladed screwdriver or knife and wedge the chrome trim over and under the black outer trim strip.
Richard D. Sukey
Side Marker Light Replacement ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
Here's a way to save a few bucks if you've had the unfortunate pleasure of having one of your side marker lenses broken by some parking lot idiot. After you've kicked in the other guy's quarter panel and ripped off his wipers! you will find that the new lens can only be purchased as a unit with the light, rubber backing, and wire, setting you back about $14.98. However, since you need only the lens, you're stuck with the rest of the stuff. Instead, buy the rear reflector assembly, the one just above the bumper and just inside the bumper guards. The cost here is only (?) $10.94. Part numbers are 63141353 055 left and 056 right. It isn't much, but at least you can congratulate yourself on outsmarting BMW in one small area.
Dave Roach.
Locked Out ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
The BMW factory is aware of the problems that 6-cylinder owners have been having with door locks freezing in the winter. The factory has published Parts Bulletin #5/71 about the problem and it is now possible to order a spray can from your dealer that will hopefully solve the problem. This is part number 51 91 9 898 827 (a new number), and it sells for about $6.50.
As an alternate, many people have success using WD-40 as a preventive measure in their locks. Do not use silicone in the locks. It tends to build up with time and will cause difficult operation.
Ed Vozek
Son of Glovebox Lock ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
After perusing Bob Mitchell's excellent article in the October '76 Roundel, I got to thinking . . . A glovebox lock is a cabinet lock! Why does it have to be a BMW factory PIN?
A quick trip to the hardware store confirmed my hypothesis. A Corbin #K-15760 for $3.11 did the trick. Following Herr Mitchell's instructions, my only modification was the addition of a spacer on top to properly position the locking arm in relation to the glovebox latch. I used a rubber washer 3/8" thick, 1" 0 D., 314" I.D. You could just as easily use one of wood or metal and it could be a somewhat larger O.D. without any problem whatsoever. The Corbin kit comes with two arms, one straight and one bent use the bent one and position it up, rather than down, so that its tip points just at or above the latch which is affixed to the under side of the dash.
Other than the slightly higher protrusion topside, it's just as functional as the one from Munich for about $7.00 less!
Stan Simm
Your Aching Back. . . ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
Alas, all BMWs have one terrible fault, let's admit it. BMW seats are among the world's worst. If you have never been in a Recaro or Scheel bucket or driven hours on end in the other great German car, you're lucky. You just don't know what real seat comfort is like and you won't miss it. But as a motoring enthusiast, what's good for your back is good for your BMW.
The fault with BMW seats is that they have terrible thigh support and miserable back support. The seat bottoms are too short, front to back, and the rear upright cushion doesn't provide any lumbar support. Short of spending lots of money on a rally seat, nothing much can be done about the short bottom cushion. However, if you tilt the seat about its transverse axis so that the front of the cushion is higher, additional and welcome thigh support will be offered. Inserting washers between the runners and the frame at the front will raise the seat even 1/4 or 5/16 of an inch makes a difference.
By undoing the six upholstery screws at the rear of the seat back and lifting the rear cover away with a downwards motion, you can get inside the seat. The seat shape is controlled by a series of zig-zag flat springs. You can't bend them but you can add padding to either re-shape a worn seat or to super-contour what you have. Using two pieces of carpet remnant, each S" by 13.5", with the naps facing each other, slip this pad under the flat springs across the seat. A good starting point is about six inches up from the seat bottom. After the padding is in position, sit down and try it Ñ your back is different from mine. Adjust the padding according to your own needs. When you sit squarely in the seat and have your hands on the steering wheel, press back into the seat cushion. If you feel your backbone creaking into shape and you can actually sit with a normal or expanded chest, no slouching here, you've got your own ideal position. Now go ahead and do the same thing to the passenger seat. After all, someday vou may be tired and someone else may be driving.
Davld J. Rivkin, 77-73 Kew Forest Lane, Forest Hills, NY 11375.
Bavaria Not Cold Enough? ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
I found the thermostat on my Bavaria A/C to be set to give a minimum discharge air temperature of 50-55 degrees. If you remove this thermostat, you will see a small fiber backing plate. With a thin knife blade, remove this backing Ñ no bending is necessary. Inside is a temperature adjusting screw. Turning in the direction of the arrow will cause the temperature to drop. The only caution to observe is making sure not to kink the tubing when removing the thermostat, and to use a glass of water and ice to make sure you don't set it too low. This could cause icing and probably damage to the compressor. Immerse the bulb in the ice water and make sure the thermostat opens at its maximum setting. With this done, the discharge air from the A/C should be in the range of 34-36 degrees. If it won't get that low while the car is running along (not at idle), then the unit needs some checking. A low gas situation is easily corrected, and is common after the unit hasn't been used for some time. Remember that when you aren't using the unit, to run it periodically anyway so that the seals don't dry out and the clutches don't get damaged when you do use it.
Stephen R. Schragger, 222 East Hanover Street, Trenton, NJ 08607, (609) 394-5371.
Rust Under Your Rear Bumper? ..................................... .......(Table of Contents)
As I had the Bavaria out in the driveway for spring cleaning, I noticed to my dismay some rust spots under the rear bumper. The position of this bumper is such that it can pick up all kinds of road dirt, mud, salt, etc., so periodic removal and cleaning is a must.
It's not as hard as it might look. On 1973 and earlier sixes (fours and post-73's may differ), the bumper comes off by removing four bolts and loosening two others. Remove the trunk floor, unsnapping the half over the spare tire and removing the small screws that hold the other half. Unbolt the four 13 mm bolts that pass through the car's rear sheet metal into the bumper at the bumper guard assembly. Don't worry about losing the nuts, as they are secured inside the bumper guards. Then loosen, but don't remove, the two bolts that pass through the fender sheet metal into the front ends of the bumper. The bumper will then slide off as you pull back and down on it. Be careful not to scratch the paint of the car's body. Watch out for the exhaust pipe, too. It helps if you have someone else to help you .
You can then clean, paint if necessary, wax the sheet metal under the bumper, and clean out the inside cavity of the bumper itself. Replace in reverse order of disassembly, noting that the bolt holes in the bumper guards and sheet metal allow you to adjust the bumper both vertically and horizontally. While you have the trunk floor out, check for rust around the top and sides of the fuel tank. Treat this area with silicone spray to prevent rust formation.
Richard 0. Neville, 30 Yarmouth Road, Wellesley Hills, MA 02181.
Windshield Installation: Nightmare avoided.............. . .....(Table of Contents)
Alright...A few things that you must know:
* the aluminium window trim cannot be bent and straightened without it looking like crap later;
* You MUST buy a new windshield gasket. They are available new. Using the old one is out of the question;
* Follow these steps and you will not be sorry. Trying to do it any other way and you'll be screwed.Removal:
1) CUT the old windshield gasket away with a sharp razor, taking care not to scratch paint or window trim. You will really only be able to cut away the part between the windshield trim and the car, but can cut a little of it between the trim and the windshield itself
2) Take tremendous care removing the aluminium trim. Remove the top and sides first. They will typically SLIDE out away from the car. Do not attempt to PULL THEM OUT straight up. Use a lubricant like WD40 or something to loosen them up. You can leave the bottom piece in for removal with the windshield;
3) After you've taken the trim out, you'll be able to cut away most of the old gasket easily, then you can pry the windshield out or from the inside of the car, have TWO people sit in the front seats and push with their stocking feet with some joker standing on the outside, ready to catch the windshield. If you hear a cracking sound, then you haven't cut enough of the old gasket out;(An aside: while you have the windshield out, you will have easy access to all of the dashboard screws. The only way you can get an E3s dash out is by removing the windshield, so if you're thinking about putting a new one in, this is the time)
Installation:
1) Get two sawhorses or some facsimile thereof;
2) Place windshield face down on the surface;
3) Get new gasket and place in clothes dryer. Turn selector to cottons/high heat and let the gasket get nice and warm. If you are married, put the gasket into a large cloth bag of some sort so you don't get any rubber in the dryer. If you are a bachelor, go to the laundromat on the Marty Roach side of town.
4) After the gasket is nice and pliable, take it out of the dryer . . . put the gasket sealant in the groove of the gasket (where the windshield will go);
5) Put the rubber gasket on the windshield, which (presumably) is still sitting on the sawhorses;
6) At this time, put the windshield trim into the gasket. It is typically six pieces (one bottom, two sides (which also make the top), the center piece (two inches long) and the two bottom corner pieces (also about two inches long). This trim will fit into the gasket and will actually anchor itself behind the glass of the windshield;
7) Use soapy water and soap up the car side of the gasket. Route a thick piece of string (or a thin rope) into the groove of the gasket which will actually fit into the windshield hole of the car;
8) Place the windshield etc., onto the car and while pushing from the outside on the windshield, pull the string from the inside, seating the gasket.The last part is kind of iffy but that is the standard way to install a windshield. The important part is to remember the trim CAN ONLY go into the gasket while the gasket and windshield is out of the car. There is ABSOLUTELY NO OTHER WAY to install the trim.
Good luck and hire someone else to do it :^)
Bill Gau
Water Pump Hell: Avoidable?.............. . .....(Table of Contents)
Always ALWAYS get all new bolts and washers when doing this job! It will be a damn miracle something doesn't break when trying to remove the old bolts attaching the ruined pump!
Just start spraying the old bolts with a miracle fluid known as PB Blaster which is, without a doubt, the best of the liquid wrench type of sprays; indeed, this product makes WD-40 seem like water and is worth its weight in gold! I would literally coat the bolts for a few days before you attempt to remove them, especially if it looks as if the pump has never been changed. These bolts are notorious for breaking off and when they do, you have to resort to EZ OUT Hell. Some also suggest warming the car up and relieving the cooling system pressure as well as light taps from a hammer(also applying a little heat from a propane torch if handy).
If you do manage to get the pump off , buy a tub of anti-seize and then accidentally DROP the new bolts in it! While fumbling around for them, watch in amazement how they are literally COVERED in the strange brown toxic waste. Then, and only then, re attach the damn pump with the slathered bolts... Maximilion has the pumps for cheap (around $50 or so). And the hardware. It should be considered a package deal. The main one smiling will be the next sap who attempts to take off that pump after praying to various Gods. It will fall off in his hands and he will send you flowers. The only thing on a BMW Bavaria that shouldn't be slathered in anti-seize is the dome light (and this is debatable).
Another thing, make sure you take this time to upgrade to the new nine blade fan and fan clutch if you havent done so already. It makes a big improvement in the cooling. Also, go ahead and replace the belts that drive the damn pump. Another tip, if you have AC but are not using it, use this pulley to drive the alternator directly (or wp). The main reason for waterpump bearing failure is the pressure from the long belt to the pump from the alternator. It's just too much for the pump bearing to take. It would also be a wise time to replace the thermostat for safe measure.
Do not forget to speak in tongues before attempting this hell job; it is very easy for this simple fix to turn into a nightmare!
mvws
MaxVonWontStart@aol.com
Hazard / Defrost button constantly out - on?.............. . .....(Table of Contents)
This can be fixed fairly easily. Worst case, you can replace the part for $27, but my mechanic fixed mine (hazard switch) for $10.
You basically remove the panel... unscrew the switch from the nut/lid that's holding it to the dash.... unplug it... get a small screwdriver... pry it open, working around the perimeter. After it's open, you'll see a little metal 'arm' with a small pin. Assuming the pin isn't broken you can gently bend the arm inward so that it catches the groove better.
Shawn Keve
skeve@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Bug Juice Windshield Horror? Try this!.............. . .....(Table of Contents)
If you are not like me and getting ready for the Concours d'Elegance d'Eye-tally-ano yet have dead bug guts all over your windschield ('er windscreen) then youze needs to give this one a go: 0000 Ultra Fine Steel Wool.
Buff the crap out of your glass and bug guff is magically gone, in seconds. Better than the Popiel Pocket Fisherman and costs less too. Another for instance: some idiot on the Port Elizabeth Pier writes on your windschield.........."To Europ" in Magic Marker. No problem, just whip out some 0000 Ultra Fine Steel Wool and mis-spellings are a thing of the past. I really think this makes the glass even cleaner. Not kidding, it works great!
Just be sure NOT to use it on painted surfaces.
Met vriendelijk groet,
Jim Clark
airbav@xs4all.nl
editors note: Marilyn W. of E9 fame suggests this fix:
I generally just use a razor blade and carbonated water. Works like magic.
Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal in 4.5 Steps!.............. . .....(Table of Contents)
Saw the requests for info to remove the ignition switch. So I went to the parts car and looked at it to be sure. (since I have done this about 15 times). Then I realized, I aint gots a parts car...maybe Terry Weaver does. Why quibble with details? Take the below to bank (along with ignition lock):
Step 1: remove under column covers
Step 2; remove tiny, locktighted in, setscrew. carefully remove plug that wires attach to. notice finger on plug that setscrew goes into, look for tiny alignment tab cast into cheap pot metal plug.
Step 3: look to right of steering shaft. you are looking for a small rectangular piece of metal, about 1/2" by 1 1/4", at the bottom of this metal plate is a bolt. if you are lucky your bolt has been replaced with a normal bolt with head, remove bolt. remove plate. if you are not lucky step 3a:
Step 3a: I usually get a beer now and think of where the tools are that I will need or make the person who I am doing this for go buy some. you are looking at the anti tamper bolt ( the round bump thing) this is to help prevent theft you need to drill a hole in this and use an easy out type bolt remover to remove it. I usually take the 4 1/2 " angle grinder to this rounded head and make a flat spot to drill into this also heats the bolt up to aid in removal. save bolt you will need to replace it
Step 4: insert key and turn to on position. remove lock. you may have a contact switch on the top of the ignition switch that will require a little more effort to remove. this switch is for the seatbelt system and maybe other things assemble in reverse order, replace with new normal type bolt or buy new tamper resistant bolt from aftermarket or dealer
other comments:
notice the cheap pot metal plug that goes into the back of the ignition switch. the edges of the metal plug in the back is crimped onto the bakelite that has the solder posts for the wires. if these crimps are loose it can make starting the car difficult and may short out and cause a fire. all of the pre 82 bmws have this plugin. that may or may not be directly interchangeable, however they can be made too. plugs are also made of plastic in the e23's, this is what I use. notice the tiny cast or molded pin in the end of the plug, this pin helps to lock the the plug against turning when the key is turned.
NOTE this is not the cast or molded tab that the tiny setscrew goes into. file off the little pin. I then lightly glue the plug with silicone and insert into the ignition lock being careful to align the tab for the setscrew. rewire as needed, most off the wires are the same size and color, different lengths and spade ends. * one more thing to check for in the salvage yards and grab if the bolt has been replaced.
Bill "I aint even got an E3 now" Gau
Terry Weaver
bill@williamgau.com
©1998 by Kelly Holsten...........................................email: BMWBavaria...............................................home page