Wheel
Bearing Interchangeability .....................................
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of Contents)
The following are the Timken Company's front wheel bearings made for
BMWs. Bearings are pretty much the same through all manufacturer's lines
and there is no reason to pay the BMW dealer's mark-up. The first number
is the bearing and the second is the race. You will have to pick up the
seals from a BMW dealer.
1966-74 Bavaria, 3.0CS/CSi/CSL/S/Si, 3.3L, 520, 525, 520i, 1800,1800TI,
2000, 2000CS/CA/TI, 2002TI, 2002tii, Touring 2002tii, 2500, 2800, 3000
V8, Turbo:
inner- LM67010, LM67048, outer- LM11910, LM 11949.
As of this writing, we are working on the same type of list for rear
wheel bearings. Bear in mind that much of the above information is according
to various listings not all of them have been checked in use, but there
is no reason to doubt their accuracy.
Dave Toy. 10604 Democracy Lane, Potomac, MD 20854.
Sway
Bar Tip .....................................
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of Contents)
Protect the threaded ends of the sway bar connecting arms by turning
them upside down. Just remove the two nuts and reinstall with the head
of the bolts facing down. If you're worried that the threaded ends will
hit the strut, you may be correct, but only when the suspension is at full
extension, as when the car is jacked up.
Eric Schoenholz, 1929 Boulevard, West Hartford, CT 06107, (203) 521-1120.
Seat
Belt Retractor Repaired .....................................
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of Contents)
The seat belt retractor in my '73 Bavaria had become a problem. O.K.
in summer, but the belt wouldn't feed out in cold weather. Professional
counsel seemed reluctant to try a fix, so I tried it, and was successful.
First requirement was removal of plastic snap-cover, and then exposed
bolt from frame. Then, carefully, the inside trim panel was removed from
the door-post, starting from the bottom corners, and unsnapping the several
plastic pins.
The retractor housing was then removed by removal of one bolt. Electrical
wires came out by removing the plastic center cap, prying up the side toward
the wires, removing the screw on the metal wire-cover, and then lifting
out the wire sensors.
The retractor cylinder has two black plastic covers at its end. It seemed
inadvisable to remove the one housing the strong steel spring which can
be seen through the hole vacated by the electrical sensor. My problem was
in the other end.
By prying off the plastic cap with a knife, I confirmed that a seasonal
oil change could not have affected the action.
The most obvious action was normal. The slow-pull allowed belt to feed
out, and fast-pull caused an eccentric to engage.
The culprit was a tiny hook formed of spring steel wire, the function
of which is to hold the belt fast on about anything but straight-and-level.
It reaches out and engages whenever its three-dimensional frame varies
from any vertical, and in sudden acceleration or deceleration.
The fix is judgmental and experimental. Gently bend the hook inward
so it is less able to engage the corresponding wire which revolves with
the hub as the belt is pulled out.
After adjusting, the action can be tested before installing by holding
the retractor while reeling out the belt, simulating various positions
the car might assume.
Reinstallation was a simple reversal of removal. I was pleased that
the trim panel on the door post shows no signs of the procedure. Belt action
seems perfect in all respects.
Carter Fratt
Fan
Clutch Kit .....................................
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of Contents)
Another kit I've put together is for 2500, 2800, and 3.0 Bavaria owners
with fan clutch failures. Try the fan clutch used on the 3.0Si and 530i.
The old style fan clutch, part number 11.52.1.251.821, sells for $90.81,
which is outrageous. The new one is much more reliable. It is still outrageously
priced but is worth it if you are having over-heating problems.
The parts needed for this conversion are:
Clutch 11.52.1.264.469 $108.41
Multiple Blade Fan 11.52.1.259.802 12.10
Installation Kit 19.61
TOTAL $140.1 2
We've sold many of these kits, and it's also a simple bolt-in installation.
Jim Kosturik
Knauz Continental Autos
Lake Forest, Illinois
CB's
And Bavaria .....................................
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of Contents)
But who wants the hassle of having your pride broken into because of
a telltale antenna? Of course you can take the CB out every time you relinquish
the car to the vagaries of the world (i.e. watch some parking lot lout
do donuts in reverse). All of this can be avoided by the following two-step
plan. First, buy or win as a door prize a Cobra 19. This unit is small
enough to fit in the door of the left-hand under-dash compartment. With
the door closed no evil eagle-eye can spot it. Then in place of the usual
add-on CB antenna, purchase an antenna adapter that will allow you to use
your car antenna. This will not perform like an add-on for serious CB'ing,
but it will do the job for road reports. Thus you have succeeded in foiling
the evil ones and at the same time have achieved the utmost of convenience.
Bavaria
CB Location .....................................
.......(Table
of Contents)
Thought I'd pass along what I think is the ideal location for a CB in
the Bavaria series cars. A slide-out bracket bolts neatly to the drop-down
door for the hood release; drill holes right through it and use large washers
inside the door to distribute the load across the slightly flimsy structure.
Drill a 1/4 inch hole at the bottom of the door and run the wire ends from
the bracket inside the door, to keep them out of sight.
Take the long wires that came with your CB and run them right through
the hood release tube and into the engine compartment, where you can bolt
the power lead right to the battery terminal nut and the ground to any
good ground. PA speaker wires can be routed the same way, and the speaker
itself can be dropped down, horn up, behind the left headlight assembly,
where it will happily rest without any bolts. Friendly greetings from a
passing BMW will amaze your pedestrian types!
Antennas will mount nicely on the left rear deck edge, which is a better
location than the front edge of the deck, as it affords better signal propagation.
Run the coax cable (sans connector) through the ventilation slots or headrest
holes in the rear deck area into your car's interior.
In eight months of CB'ing, I've talked to only two other BMWs. That's
a shame knowing where Smokey's at has put the fun back into driving again
for me. Next time you're near Springfield, Va., give a shout to Sky King
and we'll have us a BMW convoy.
Gary W. Allen
If the CB is mounted on the drop-down door for the hood release, the
latch might have to be readjusted to assure that the door is still retained
tightly. Mine once opened on a bump and prevented me from getting to the
clutch. Further, hooking up the CB directly to the battery without a fuse
could lead to an electrical fire if the wire should somehow short against
the chassis, and the radio will always be "on" unless manually turned off
when the car is stopped
Ed Vozek, Six Cyl. Ed.
Window
Trim Strip Bavaria .....................................
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of Contents)
The suggestion applies to fellow Bavaria owners who have chips or holes
in the black plastic portion of the window aperture outer trim strip. This
particular strip appears to be one of the components on the Bavaria especially
susceptible to cracking or chipping. A check with your local parts man
will show that the entire outer trim strip must be ordered to replace just
the plastic section.
I found those plastic chrome trim strips normally applied to door edges
for the prevention of accidental chipping solved the problem for my Bavaria.
I purchased two sets, each set containing two strips 33 inches in length
at 97¢ per set and had enough to cover all four doors. Installation
is simple and can be accomplished in about 30 minutes; simply lift one
end of the black strip with a flat-bladed screwdriver or knife and wedge
the chrome trim over and under the black outer trim strip.
Richard D. Sukey
Side
Marker Light Replacement .....................................
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of Contents)
Here's a way to save a few bucks if you've had the unfortunate pleasure
of having one of your side marker lenses broken by some parking lot idiot.
After you've kicked in the other guy's quarter panel and ripped off his
wipers! you will find that the new lens can only be purchased as a unit
with the light, rubber backing, and wire, setting you back about $14.98.
However, since you need only the lens, you're stuck with the rest of the
stuff. Instead, buy the rear reflector assembly, the one just above the
bumper and just inside the bumper guards. The cost here is only (?) $10.94.
Part numbers are 63141353 055 left and 056 right. It isn't much, but at
least you can congratulate yourself on outsmarting BMW in one small area.
Dave Roach.
Locked
Out .....................................
.......(Table
of Contents)
The BMW factory is aware of the problems that 6-cylinder owners have
been having with door locks freezing in the winter. The factory has published
Parts Bulletin #5/71 about the problem and it is now possible to order
a spray can from your dealer that will hopefully solve the problem. This
is part number 51 91 9 898 827 (a new number), and it sells for about $6.50.
As an alternate, many people have success using WD-40 as a preventive
measure in their locks. Do not use silicone in the locks. It tends to build
up with time and will cause difficult operation.
Ed Vozek
Son
of Glovebox Lock .....................................
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of Contents)
After perusing Bob Mitchell's excellent article in the October '76 Roundel,
I got to thinking . . . A glovebox lock is a cabinet lock! Why does it
have to be a BMW factory PIN?
A quick trip to the hardware store confirmed my hypothesis. A Corbin
#K-15760 for $3.11 did the trick. Following Herr Mitchell's instructions,
my only modification was the addition of a spacer on top to properly position
the locking arm in relation to the glovebox latch. I used a rubber washer
3/8" thick, 1" 0 D., 314" I.D. You could just as easily use one of wood
or metal and it could be a somewhat larger O.D. without any problem whatsoever.
The Corbin kit comes with two arms, one straight and one bent use the bent
one and position it up, rather than down, so that its tip points just at
or above the latch which is affixed to the under side of the dash.
Other than the slightly higher protrusion topside, it's just as functional
as the one from Munich for about $7.00 less!
Stan Simm
Your
Aching Back. . . .....................................
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of Contents)
Alas, all BMWs have one terrible fault, let's admit it. BMW seats are
among the world's worst. If you have never been in a Recaro or Scheel bucket
or driven hours on end in the other great German car, you're lucky. You
just don't know what real seat comfort is like and you won't miss it. But
as a motoring enthusiast, what's good for your back is good for your BMW.
The fault with BMW seats is that they have terrible thigh support and
miserable back support. The seat bottoms are too short, front to back,
and the rear upright cushion doesn't provide any lumbar support. Short
of spending lots of money on a rally seat, nothing much can be done about
the short bottom cushion. However, if you tilt the seat about its transverse
axis so that the front of the cushion is higher, additional and welcome
thigh support will be offered. Inserting washers between the runners and
the frame at the front will raise the seat even 1/4 or 5/16 of an inch
makes a difference.
By undoing the six upholstery screws at the rear of the seat back and
lifting the rear cover away with a downwards motion, you can get inside
the seat. The seat shape is controlled by a series of zig-zag flat springs.
You can't bend them but you can add padding to either re-shape a worn seat
or to super-contour what you have. Using two pieces of carpet remnant,
each S" by 13.5", with the naps facing each other, slip this pad under
the flat springs across the seat. A good starting point is about six inches
up from the seat bottom. After the padding is in position, sit down and
try it Ñ your back is different from mine. Adjust the padding according
to your own needs. When you sit squarely in the seat and have your hands
on the steering wheel, press back into the seat cushion. If you feel your
backbone creaking into shape and you can actually sit with a normal or
expanded chest, no slouching here, you've got your own ideal position.
Now go ahead and do the same thing to the passenger seat. After all, someday
vou may be tired and someone else may be driving.
Davld J. Rivkin, 77-73 Kew Forest Lane, Forest Hills, NY 11375.
Bavaria
Not Cold Enough? .....................................
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of Contents)
I found the thermostat on my Bavaria A/C to be set to give a minimum
discharge air temperature of 50-55 degrees. If you remove this thermostat,
you will see a small fiber backing plate. With a thin knife blade, remove
this backing Ñ no bending is necessary. Inside is a temperature
adjusting screw. Turning in the direction of the arrow will cause the temperature
to drop. The only caution to observe is making sure not to kink the tubing
when removing the thermostat, and to use a glass of water and ice to make
sure you don't set it too low. This could cause icing and probably damage
to the compressor. Immerse the bulb in the ice water and make sure the
thermostat opens at its maximum setting. With this done, the discharge
air from the A/C should be in the range of 34-36 degrees. If it won't get
that low while the car is running along (not at idle), then the unit needs
some checking. A low gas situation is easily corrected, and is common after
the unit hasn't been used for some time. Remember that when you aren't
using the unit, to run it periodically anyway so that the seals don't dry
out and the clutches don't get damaged when you do use it.
Stephen R. Schragger, 222 East Hanover Street, Trenton, NJ 08607, (609)
394-5371.
Rust
Under Your Rear Bumper? .....................................
.......(Table
of Contents)
As I had the Bavaria out in the driveway for spring cleaning, I noticed
to my dismay some rust spots under the rear bumper. The position of this
bumper is such that it can pick up all kinds of road dirt, mud, salt, etc.,
so periodic removal and cleaning is a must.
It's not as hard as it might look. On 1973 and earlier sixes (fours
and post-73's may differ), the bumper comes off by removing four bolts
and loosening two others. Remove the trunk floor, unsnapping the half over
the spare tire and removing the small screws that hold the other half.
Unbolt the four 13 mm bolts that pass through the car's rear sheet metal
into the bumper at the bumper guard assembly. Don't worry about losing
the nuts, as they are secured inside the bumper guards. Then loosen, but
don't remove, the two bolts that pass through the fender sheet metal into
the front ends of the bumper. The bumper will then slide off as you pull
back and down on it. Be careful not to scratch the paint of the car's body.
Watch out for the exhaust pipe, too. It helps if you have someone else
to help you .
You can then clean, paint if necessary, wax the sheet metal under the
bumper, and clean out the inside cavity of the bumper itself. Replace in
reverse order of disassembly, noting that the bolt holes in the bumper
guards and sheet metal allow you to adjust the bumper both vertically and
horizontally. While you have the trunk floor out, check for rust around
the top and sides of the fuel tank. Treat this area with silicone spray
to prevent rust formation.
Richard 0. Neville, 30 Yarmouth Road, Wellesley Hills, MA 02181.
Windshield
Installation: Nightmare avoided..............
. .....(Table
of Contents)
Alright...A few things that you must know:
* the aluminium window trim cannot be bent and straightened without
it looking like crap later;
* You MUST buy a new windshield gasket. They are available new. Using
the old one is out of the question;
* Follow these steps and you will not be sorry. Trying to do it any
other way and you'll be screwed.
Removal:
1) CUT the old windshield gasket away with a sharp razor, taking
care not to scratch paint or window trim. You will really only be
able to cut away the part between the windshield trim and the car,
but can cut a little of it between the trim and the windshield itself
2) Take tremendous care removing the aluminium trim. Remove the top
and sides first. They will typically SLIDE out away from the car.
Do not attempt to PULL THEM OUT straight up. Use a lubricant like
WD40 or something to loosen them up. You can leave the bottom piece
in for removal with the windshield;
3) After you've taken the trim out, you'll be able to cut away most
of the old gasket easily, then you can pry the windshield out or from
the inside of the car, have TWO people sit in the front seats and
push with their stocking feet with some joker standing on the outside,
ready to catch the windshield. If you hear a cracking sound, then
you haven't cut enough of the old gasket out;
(An aside: while you have the windshield out, you will have easy
access to all of the dashboard screws. The only way you can get an
E3s dash out is by removing the windshield, so if you're thinking
about putting a new one in, this is the time)
Installation:
1) Get two sawhorses or some facsimile thereof;
2) Place windshield face down on the surface;
3) Get new gasket and place in clothes dryer. Turn selector to cottons/high
heat and let the gasket get nice and warm. If you are married, put
the gasket into a large cloth bag of some sort so you don't get any
rubber in the dryer. If you are a bachelor, go to the laundromat on
the Marty Roach side of town.
4) After the gasket is nice and pliable, take it out of the dryer
. . . put the gasket sealant in the groove of the gasket (where the
windshield will go);
5) Put the rubber gasket on the windshield, which (presumably) is
still sitting on the sawhorses;
6) At this time, put the windshield trim into the gasket. It is typically
six pieces (one bottom, two sides (which also make the top), the center
piece (two inches long) and the two bottom corner pieces (also about
two inches long). This trim will fit into the gasket and will actually
anchor itself behind the glass of the windshield;
7) Use soapy water and soap up the car side of the gasket. Route a
thick piece of string (or a thin rope) into the groove of the gasket
which will actually fit into the windshield hole of the car;
8) Place the windshield etc., onto the car and while pushing from
the outside on the windshield, pull the string from the inside, seating
the gasket.
The last part is kind of iffy but that is the standard way to install
a windshield. The important part is to remember the trim CAN ONLY
go into the gasket while the gasket and windshield is out of the car.
There is ABSOLUTELY NO OTHER WAY to install the trim.
Good luck and hire someone else to do it :^)
Bill Gau
Water
Pump Hell: Avoidable?..............
. .....(Table
of Contents)
Always ALWAYS get all new bolts and washers when doing
this job! It will be a damn miracle something doesn't break when trying
to remove the old bolts attaching the ruined pump!
Just start spraying the old bolts with a miracle fluid known as PB
Blaster which is, without a doubt, the best of the liquid wrench
type of sprays; indeed, this product makes WD-40 seem like water
and is worth its weight in gold! I would literally coat the bolts
for a few days before you attempt to remove them, especially if it
looks as if the pump has never been changed. These bolts are notorious
for breaking off and when they do, you have to resort to EZ OUT Hell.
Some also suggest warming the car up and relieving the cooling system
pressure as well as light taps from a hammer(also applying a little
heat from a propane torch if handy).
If you do manage to get the pump off , buy a tub of anti-seize
and then accidentally DROP the new bolts in it! While fumbling around
for them, watch in amazement how they are literally COVERED in the
strange brown toxic waste. Then, and only then, re attach the damn
pump with the slathered bolts... Maximilion has the pumps for cheap
(around $50 or so). And the hardware. It should be considered
a package deal. The main one smiling will be the next sap who attempts
to take off that pump after praying to various Gods. It will fall
off in his hands and he will send you flowers. The only thing on a
BMW Bavaria that shouldn't be slathered in anti-seize is the dome
light (and this is debatable).
Another thing, make sure you take this time to upgrade to the new
nine blade fan and fan clutch if you havent done so already. It makes
a big improvement in the cooling. Also, go ahead and replace the belts
that drive the damn pump. Another tip, if you have AC but are not
using it, use this pulley to drive the alternator directly (or wp).
The main reason for waterpump bearing failure is the pressure from
the long belt to the pump from the alternator. It's just too much
for the pump bearing to take. It would also be a wise time to replace
the thermostat for safe measure.
Do not forget to speak in tongues before attempting this hell job;
it is very easy for this simple fix to turn into a nightmare!
mvws
MaxVonWontStart@aol.com
Hazard
/ Defrost button constantly out - on?..............
. .....(Table
of Contents)
This can be fixed fairly easily. Worst case, you can replace the
part for $27, but my mechanic fixed mine (hazard switch) for $10.
You basically remove the panel... unscrew the switch from the nut/lid
that's holding it to the dash.... unplug it... get a small screwdriver...
pry it open, working around the perimeter. After it's open, you'll
see a little metal 'arm' with a small pin. Assuming the pin isn't
broken you can gently bend the arm inward so that it catches the groove
better.
Shawn Keve
skeve@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Bug Juice
Windshield Horror? Try this!..............
. .....(Table
of Contents)
If you are not like me and getting ready for the Concours d'Elegance
d'Eye-tally-ano yet have dead bug guts all over your windschield ('er
windscreen) then youze needs to give this one a go: 0000 Ultra
Fine Steel Wool.
Buff the crap out of your glass and bug guff is magically gone, in
seconds. Better than the Popiel Pocket Fisherman and costs less too.
Another for instance: some idiot on the Port Elizabeth Pier writes
on your windschield.........."To Europ" in Magic Marker. No
problem, just whip out some 0000 Ultra Fine Steel Wool
and mis-spellings are a thing of the past. I really think this makes
the glass even cleaner. Not kidding, it works great!
Just be sure NOT to use it on painted surfaces.
Met vriendelijk groet,
Jim Clark
airbav@xs4all.nl
editors note: Marilyn W. of E9 fame suggests this fix:
I generally just use a razor blade and carbonated water. Works like
magic.
Ignition
Lock Cylinder Removal in 4.5 Steps!..............
. .....(Table
of Contents)
Saw the requests for info to remove the ignition switch. So I went
to the parts car and looked at it to be sure. (since I have done this
about 15 times). Then I realized, I aint gots a parts car...maybe
Terry Weaver does. Why quibble with details? Take the below to bank
(along with ignition lock):
Step 1: remove under column covers
Step 2; remove tiny, locktighted in, setscrew. carefully remove
plug that wires attach to. notice finger on plug that setscrew goes
into, look for tiny alignment tab cast into cheap pot metal plug.
Step 3: look to right of steering shaft. you are looking for
a small rectangular piece of metal, about 1/2" by 1 1/4", at the bottom
of this metal plate is a bolt. if you are lucky your bolt has been
replaced with a normal bolt with head, remove bolt. remove plate.
if you are not lucky step 3a:
Step 3a: I usually get a beer now and think of where the tools
are that I will need or make the person who I am doing this for go
buy some. you are looking at the anti tamper bolt ( the round bump
thing) this is to help prevent theft you need to drill a hole in this
and use an easy out type bolt remover to remove it. I usually take
the 4 1/2 " angle grinder to this rounded head and make a flat spot
to drill into this also heats the bolt up to aid in removal. save
bolt you will need to replace it
Step 4: insert key and turn to on position. remove lock.
you may have a contact switch on the top of the ignition switch that
will require a little more effort to remove. this switch is for the
seatbelt system and maybe other things assemble in reverse order,
replace with new normal type bolt or buy new tamper resistant bolt
from aftermarket or dealer
other comments:
notice the cheap pot metal plug that goes into the back of the ignition
switch. the edges of the metal plug in the back is crimped onto the
bakelite that has the solder posts for the wires. if these crimps
are loose it can make starting the car difficult and may short out
and cause a fire. all of the pre 82 bmws have this plugin. that
may or may not be directly interchangeable, however they can be made
too. plugs are also made of plastic in the e23's, this is what I use.
notice the tiny cast or molded pin in the end of the plug, this pin
helps to lock the the plug against turning when the key is turned.
NOTE this is not the cast or molded tab that the tiny setscrew
goes into. file off the little pin. I then lightly glue the plug with
silicone and insert into the ignition lock being careful to align
the tab for the setscrew. rewire as needed, most off the wires are
the same size and color, different lengths and spade ends. * one
more thing to check for in the salvage yards and grab if the bolt
has been replaced.
Bill "I aint even got an E3 now" Gau
Terry Weaver
bill@williamgau.com
©1998 by Kelly
Holsten...........................................email:
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